Custom Shirt

Dressing Tips For Short Height Person

2011-06-10T03:43:00.001-07:00

In order to achieve a taller appearance, you must establish a unified look from top to bottom that uses vertical lines, smooth transitions and thematic consistency. The goal is for people to perceive you either in passing glance or by general perception as a whole and not broken up in parts. Below are the top ten tips tactics (in no particular order) on how to look taller.

Short Hair:
Be sure to keep your hair short and neatly trimmed. Shorter hair allows us to see your neck and well trimmed short hair can create visual lines from the back of your neck up behind your ears, tapering into the body of your hair. Long hair hides your neck and forces our sightlines to naturally follow the growth of the hair down

Fit:
there are two aspects to "Fit" that are critical to appearing taller. First, your clothes must fit you well. Oversized or to tight, either way poorly fitted clothes accentuate every aspect of your body that you would prefer others to ignore. If you're not a tall man and want to build in good practices to appearing taller, be sure to find a good tailor and get your clothes fitting you as best you can. The second "Fit" element is your physical fitness. Shorter men who wish to appear taller must pay close attention to their fitness level. Being vertically challenged is no fault of your own but being unfit is all you!

Vertical patterns:
Stick with pin stripes or vertical patterns and absolutely avoid horizontal, big or loud patterns - simple as that!

Trousers:
Pleated Trousers are best to achieve a vertical sight line. A single pleat is recommended, much more in the way of fabric can defeat the purpose. Cuffs are not helpful in achieving height as they create unnecessary horizontal lines so go without cuffs.

Shoes:
Mens dress shoes typically have heels and most men do wear heeled dress shoes so be sure not to put yourself at a further disadvantage by wearing flat shoes. Incorporate heeled shoes into your work and causal wear wardrobe.

Monochromatic color scheme from top to bottom:
This tactic is one of the most important in order to achieve that unified look. Monochrome implies one color using different "tints and shades" of that same color. Staying with one hue (color) helps establish that unified and consistent theme. Here is a great example using black in a monochrome color scheme...black dress shoes, black socks, black trousers, black belt and a fitted long sleeved dark grey v-neck merino wool sweater.

Shirts:
dress shirt collars should be classic straight or narrow shirt collars with elongated collar tips. Sweaters should be v-neck not rounded. Skinny or slender neck ties with smaller knots, no bow ties. Again, our goal is vertical lines, bow ties and spread collars are horizontal and should be avoided.

Belt:
We always suggest your belt should match your shoes. We continue to stand behind this recommendation however, if can, get yourself dark brown or black dress shoes and let them become staples in your wardrobe. If you're hoping to achieve tall points having a noticeable horizontal element like a belt is bad news. Use a belt that is darker than your trousers, avoid thick belts, avoid clunky buckles and don't violate the match your shoes rule.

Jackets:
Single breasted is your best option. Never double breasted! Follow the tactics like pinstripes or vertical patterns, monochrome color schemes and above all be sure your jacket is tailored to fit you. A nicely tailored 3 button single breasted jacket will server your needs perfectly.

Posture etc:
You should not have to be told, if you're below average in height you don't have the latitude for poor posture. Don't slouch, stand up-right, project your confidence, walk with purpose, be assertive, speak clearly, definitively and in controlled lower tones...That's how to look taller!

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Advantages Of A Custom Made Shirt

2010-11-09T03:43:00.001-08:00

The handmade shirt has a long history worldwide and its popularity in recent years demonstrates that there is still a wealth of individuals who like the tailored look.
Perhaps they're businessmen who need to make an impression, or they're just people who take pride in what they wear, but no matter what their motivation, the handmade bespoke shirt is here to stay.
However, at times the cost of a tailor made shirts has been well outside the realm of possibility of many men, but in recent years the rise in popularity of the handmade shirt has meant that prices aren't quite so steep, with shirts now available under 75.00 specially with the advent of online custom tailors.
They can go to Savile Row to have their suit measured then take a leisurely stroll around the corner to get the shirt to match. A testament to the importance of the handmade shirt to the modern man is the amount of people who travel from the USA and beyond to get their made-to-measure shirt, year on year.
Quality is a main factor, the many years of experience offered to the creation of a handmade shirt is second to none, the sewing is beautifully accurate - no loose ends and probably the most important factor is that the shirt is comfortable to wear because it's made-to-measure for the individual.

You can choose the fabric, collar and single or double cuff designs so that you can design your perfect mens shirts, which for those that like to look good is perhaps as much a perfect proposition as it is a perfect shirt.
But aside from the perfect fit, perhaps the biggest motivation for getting yourself kitted out in a tailor made shirts is the desire to stand out from the crowd. An off the rack shirt, all be a similar style, fit, and cut. They'll also probably all be from the same shop.
Wouldn't it be nice to be the one man who's wearing a completely original, hand-made shirt that fits like a glove and looks truly amazing? A shirt that skims your shoulders perfectly, with sleeves that fit your arms to the millimetre, and a collar that neither chokes you, or gapes open round the neck, no extra fabric hanging at the back or the torso.
The shirts can be a slim fit, comfortable or loose fit with Spread collar, Full Spread, English Cut Away collar, French Cuffs, Bond Cuffs, White collar and White Cuffs,Tab Collar, Button Down Collar.
So you can see why the bespoke, tailor made shirts still lives on today despite it being an historical trend. It just goes to show that there will always be a market for the man who wants to look his best, and wear clothing that is comfortable, stylish, and completely original.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Mens Dress Shirts

2010-02-09T21:08:00.000-08:00

See How A Simple Men's Shirt Can Enhance Your Look, Personality And Appearance In An Instant

Ask a man this simple question. What can enhance your look, personality and appearance in a matter of moments?

Some may find it difficult to say? The answer is a quality shirt. Shirts can help to reorganize the way you look. A Shirt is comfortable and can be cool, fashionable, elegant and stylish. It symbolizes freedom, comfort and individuality of that concerned person. You can wear them for casual, wedding, dinner, business, travelling, all seasons, and anytime and for any purpose.

While selecting a shirt you need to take notes on fashion, coordination that matches your skin and hair color. Imagine a light haired man with fair colored skin tone, in a pure white shirt. The pure white shirt cannot do a thing to enhance his appearance. Shirts come in different fabrics and textures generally to fit you well as well as being versatile, and more economical too.

Shirts are the easiest way for you to reflect your personal style. They are not only for style, but also it is a cover to partly safeguard and protect your skin from the hot sun, dust and cold. Plenty of fabrics like cotton, poplin, linen and wool in different textures, and blended varieties are available.

Cotton garments are durable and very comfortable to wear. Some choices like 60%, 80% cotton blended with other fabrics is suitable for some, while 100% cotton is preferred by many. The different types of cotton shirts are Casual Wear cotton shirts, Mens dress shirt, Polo shirt; knitted cotton wears, cotton T shirts etc.

Linen is epitomized as luxury. The coolness, strength and brilliance is most often found in linen compared to cotton. Linen is woven into fabrics. It is durable, strong and resists rotting in wet climates.

There are endless impressive displays of shirt styles and designs to choose from. Versatile styles of men?s shirts remain as the formal shirt casual shirt tailored shirt slim fit shirt, evening , business, cuffed shirt, long sleeve, short sleeve and summer shirt. Thousands of stripes, patterns, colors, and

a wide variety of crisp white shirt fabrics are also available.

Choose double cuffs or button cuffs. Renowned designers never miss to add this type to their catalog. For grand occasions wear a double cuff shirt with Cuff links or cuff fabric knots etc. This button cuffed shirt should suit any perfect evening wear.

We all know very well the collar shape is controlled by the neckline. A broader face with a thick neck and tiny collar will look imbalanced. Likewise a shirt with long points may drown a small man with different features. You have to choose your collar, standard collar Cut Away Collar, Button down Collar and wing collars are available.

Some of the world's most renowned and followed brands are said to be The Russell Collection, Patagonia cotton, American Apparel Brand Lion Brand to name a few. These brands have established themselves strongly and you can pick your favorite, without thinking about quality and other particulars.

Benefits Of Online Purchase:

Is it possible to search all the brands and collections in a retail shop? Your shirt purchase is easy with just a click here. Sure, in this world all things are possible! The most inexpensive way to shop for shirts is online. What can you get online? You can avoid stepping into all those stores to find
the shirt of your taste, plus you can save time and escape from roaming tirelessly. Not only that, when compared to the traditional shopping system the price will be cheaper, because online shoppers do not include show room maintenance charges, extra advertisement charges etc.

Moreover large volumes of versatile fabrics, styles, designs, colors and sizes can be viewed by sitting in your own living room, and can get clarified immediately by email or over the phone to make your order. The online purchase is safer for money handling. You need not go to the bank to draw out your money. You can buy with your Master, Visa, Discover, American Express etc, Debit cards are also accepted. So why delay? Start browsing, to select the right shirt and enjoy the benefits.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Dress Shirts

2009-08-29T02:21:00.000-07:00

The first thing a person notices about a dress shirt is its color. In a crowded room of suits, your choice of shirt colors will either help you stand out or blend in; the key here is what are your intentions and do you know how to mix and match your clothing in order to fulfill them. The only way to do this is to gain mastery in understanding 1) what color shades compliment you and 2) how those same colors frame you in your environment. The goal of this article is to help you to begin to understand both.

The Role of your Complexion, Hair, and Eye Color
A man's complexion, hair color, and eye color are the key indicators he should use when selecting the color of a fabric which will cover his body. Unfortunately, most men make their color decision based on what they have worn in the past, what colors are readily available, and the ever-changing winds of fashion. The result is what you see today, a sea of solid white and blue shirts. The two most important factors in selecting shirt color are a man's skin tone and hair color. Eye color is a wild-card factor; in the cases where eye color strongly contrasts a man's complexion and hair color, it can be used to introduce colors that would otherwise have not compliment an individual. It is the relationship between these three factors that determines what contrast category a man falls into: either High, Low, or Medium Contrast

High Contrast Men

Put simply, these are men whose hair color is a stark contrast to their skin tone; black hair with white skin is a perfect example. For high contrast men, the key to looking good is to be able to mimic this color difference in their clothing with the contrast in their facial zone. A dark navy suit with a white shirt and a charcoal suit with an ice blue shirt are two combinations that compliment high contrast men. In general, light colored shirts with dark suits and dark/vibrant ties with light colored suits. Dark shirts with light suits can be accomplished, but pulling this off requires skill. High contrast men are always complimented by strong ties that stand out from the shirt.

Low Contrast Men

As the name suggests, these are men with a muted appearance. Light hair and light skin is the most common variant, but men with red hair, bald men, and men with little hair also fall into this category. The strengths of these men are the exact opposite of the high contrast men above. Low contrast men should seek a monochromatic look, as that a strong contrasting outfit will easily overpower their muted tones. Remember the purpose of a frame (your clothing) is to enhance the picture (your face). In general, low contrast men fair well with dark blues and earth tone dress shirts combined with dark suits. When wearing light gray or tan suits, the low contrast gentlemen needs to stay with lighter colored shirts and earth tones; white is permissible here if the suit is light enough to avoid a stark contrast. Be careful in your choice of tie, if the neck-wear stands out too much it can draw attention from your face to your chest and stomach.

Medium Contrast Men

If you don't fall into one of the two extremes, you most likely fit into this group. Brown skinned men with dark hair are common members, along with lighter skinned men and with gray and white hair. With such a wide selection of facial tones and hair colors, it's hard to give specific guidance in this category. What we will say is that most men do not fit exactly in the middle; instead they lean towards either low or high contrast. The afore mentioned dark haired men with brown skin; they lean towards the high contrast, and can not only utilize that man's color combinations but they can get away with a few subtle monochromatic combinations. The same with the light skinned gentlemen with gray hair. He is more similar to the low contrast individual, and would do well to follow the rules set forth for that man. However, he can very successfully pull off a contrasting outfit, especially if his eyes or another feature compliment the color combination chosen. To sum it up, medium contrast men can enjoy the best of both worlds, but should be careful when venturing too far in one direction.

The Role of Seasons

It should be mentioned that although your natural colors are the dominant factors in determining what color clothing you should wear, they are not the only things you should pay attention to. A dandy also gives attention to the seasons, paying heed to the effect the colors around him have on the ensemble he has put together. The dark suit and dark colored shirt you decide to wear may look magnificent on you, but at a summer wedding you'll find yourself not only hot under the collar but sticking out like a sore thumb. Let's take a quick look at the seasons and the shades of color they invoke.

Spring

The season of re-birth, it's here that we pinks, lavenders, and lighter shades of blue. Lighter weight fabrics are dusted off from their winter sleep, and a man would speak well of himself to wear multi-colored checks and stripes that compliment him.

Summer

A time when light and bold colors dominate the scene. Gold striped shirts, red checks, and of course a wide variety of blue solids and patterns should grace the wardrobe of the well dressed man. 100% cottons, linens, and silks are popular fabric choices because of their wicking qualities.

Fall

Earth Tones and heavier fabrics begin to make their appearance. Clothing tends to take on a somber appearance with the onset of cooler weather, and now with the weather getting cooler is a good time to wear blends. Their heat retention qualities are good on an cold evening you are caught without an overcoat.

Winter

Dark colors and heavy fabric such as flannels make their appearance. You can enliven your wardrobe a bit with a pink or maize oxford, but winter is the season you want to get your money's worth from the fabrics designed to keep you warm. Forest green and brown tones are a stable during this season.

It's important to remember that confidence in ones appearance is vital to looking great. When people look at you a tad longer than usual, you need to have the confidence in your outfit to know that it's because you look that good (as opposed to looking that bad!). Our advice is to have the courage to know yourself, and from that knowledge choose the colors that best compliments you as an individual.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Dress Shirts

2009-08-28T22:09:00.001-07:00

Shirt fabrics or "Shirtings", as they are called by those in the industry, come in a wide variety of weave types. They are made from a range of fibers, with cotton being the most common. Most fabric names refer to the particular method in which it underlying fibers were woven. We won't go into it here, but be aware that the thickness and characteristics of the cotton fiber (shape, cleanliness, length) come into play when determining the quality and function of the total product.

Oxford Fabric

Oxford cloth is the coarsest shirting; it is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A casual fabric, it is naturally found on the button-down collar shirt, but in the US is perfectly acceptable for most business occasions. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts only the threads running in one direction are dyed, with the other threads being left white. This gives it a basket-weave, meaning the fabric's warp and weft threads cross each other in pairs. It has a characteristic textured appearance (which lends to its casual feel). Pinpoint oxford is woven likewise but of finer yarn and is smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still and can blend seamlessly with a fine wool suit and expensive tie.

Poplin Fabric

Poplin bears a smoother texture than oxford, but similar weight. This is the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it. Poplin shirt fabric is soft and comfortable and often used in casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.

Twill Fabric

Cotton twill has a shimmery diagonal weave and makes for richly textured shirts that can still be considered professional wear. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch, giving the fabric more depth. When the occasion calls for a out of the ordinary solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache by creating texture and an up close display of detail.

Broadcloth Fabric

Broadcloth shirt fabric is a weave is very similar to broadcloth except more densely packed, is one of the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away. Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.

End-on-End Fabrics

A plain one-on-one weave, this fabric traditionally uses white with another color to create a subtle check effect and texture. Occasionally, two colors are used to create a "double shot" of color. The liberal use of pattern and the eye catching weave peg this fabric as casual wear, but with the right collar and tie this fabric weave could find itself in even the most conservative banker's closet.

Formal Shirt Fabrics

Formal shirts are made of white piqué cotton, which boasts a rich, woven texture. This is the only shirt proper for black tie or white tie, and it is not appropriate for anything else. You will know this fabric by the fineness of its weave, lack of visible pattern, and smoothness of its feel.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Business Casual

2009-08-28T21:02:00.001-07:00

In the European tradition, casual is the dress code which emphasizes comfort and personal expression over presentation and uniformity. It includes a very wide variety of costume,
Casual wear is typically the dress code in which new forms of gender expression are attempted before being accepted into semi-casual or semi-formal situations.

The term casual describes a wide variety of clothing, ranging from smart casual to active attire.

Smart Casual

Typical events: Business purposes, church events, everyday wear

Smart casual usually consists of a blazer or a sports jacket a collared shirt, and dress trousers. A necktie is increasingly optional. Although suits technically fall into the informal category, so are casual enough to be considered smart casual instead. Smart casual footwear includes shoes and loafers, but not sneakers (trainers), or men's sandals.

Business Casual

Typical events: Business purposes, church events,

Business Casual is among the most fluid and varied of dress codes,
Generally speaking, ties are not worn with business casual. Most codes require that a collared shirt be worn,Dress pants or cotton twills such as chinos (khakis) are acceptable, but jeans often are not. Sports jackets are optional. Again, while loafers and other casual shoes are acceptable, sneakers and men's sandals are not. Business casual is now acceptable in some business situations and industries, but not all.

Business casual means dressing professionally, looking relaxed yet neat and pulled together.

For women: A reasonable length skirt (not mini-skirt) or full-length pants of a non-jeans material combined with a sleeved top (such as a dress shirt, polo, or sweater set) is considered acceptable. An informal dress with sleeves and appropriate skirt length is also acceptable.

For men: A combination of collared shirt (such as a dress shirt or polo shirt), cotton trousers (such as khakis), or tennis shirt with a belt, and shoes (such as loafers) with socks is generally acceptable

Unacceptable for either gender: sleeveless shirts, gym clothes, rumpled or ripped clothing, (micro) miniskirts, underwear as outerwear, bizarre hair color or styles, inappropriately revealing attire such as bare midriffs, and flip-flops.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Dress Within Your Industry Norms

2009-03-26T22:57:00.000-07:00

Dressing appropriately in today’s workplace is essential. Your clothes are the first impression you make whether on a job interview, representing your firm to a new client, or making a presentation within your company. But today the simple act of dressing can be confusing. Mistakes can be costly not only to you budget, but to your career.

Industry guidelines
The guidelines which you are about to read tend to be consistent within each profession. Key is to Dress conservatively while interviewing, and, once you get the job, be alert. Each office has a distinct culture and fashion slang with it.

ACADEMIC
Whether the job is dean of students or tenured professor, the academic dress code is the same: Business casual. That means tailored, presentable pieces that are authoritative but still approachable. Geography and, at time, the nature of the school will determine the exact interpretation. A Columbia biology professor situated in uptown New York City is likely to dress differently from her counterpart at the New Hampshire-based Dartmouth. There is the same slogan: "I dress to inspire confidence, to let people know I'm a professional who hasn't just come on the scene."

CONSULTING
A consultant should dress to establish herself as a figure of authority with the company for whom she's consulting. Generally, this means a custom tailored suit. Dressing professionally can serve another key purpose for those giving advice. It helps ensure they'll look worthy of the money the company is shelling out for the outside expertise.

RETAIL
A retail salesperson's appearance should represent the merchandise she is selling and the caliber of her clientele. Someone selling khakis a cotton twill trouser will dress differently from her counterpart in designer sportswear.

SERVICE INDUSTRY
Service positions-hotel managers, restaurants workers-often require a uniform. Otherwise, the rule of thumb is to wear crisp, well-ironed, and presentable clothes that fall into the business casual or business appropriate range, depending on the position.

ADVERTISING
Like many creative media, the dress code in advertising tends to be corporate creative.
For entry-level positions, that means whatever is in fashion at the moment-low-rider pants or ladylike dresses.
Mid level employees take liberties within a corporate casual to business appropriate range; you see the look: a lot of leather and a purple suede shirt worn with three or four long gold necklaces.
Senior executives dress with similar diversity, in everything from designer suit to devil-may-care denim.
Clearly, the more conservative the firm or a particular client -the more conservative the dress

FINANCIAL
While skirt suits, stockings, and high heels were once the norm, investment banking and its financial counterparts have slightly loosened their dress demands in recent years. A pantsuit is fine. Investment bankers and financiers like to present an image of power and also monetary success to their clients, and so a business appropriate look is the key. In New York suits or a look approximating it is common. But location is everything.
In San Francisco; where slacks, a jacket and a sweater or a blouse is common. Nobody seems to be wearing hose or heels. You do see business skirts. If someone has a meeting, the look will be more suit like. But in general people wear a more casual look.

MEDICINE
Some of the policies describe the medical dress code as ‘tasteful and professional’. What it means is no low-end; yes they give an actual number measurement for their dress. They have to wear a white coat at all times. Underneath it are suits or pants or a dress, all tailored to fit perfectly and well ironed.

LAW
While law and banking are considered the last bastions of truly formal business attire, even their staunch guidelines have softened in recent years. In metropolitan regions, a suit is commonplace, and closed-toe shoes and stocking legs are required. These and other particulars -including skirt length, Friday dress, and court room attire are governed by the mandates of each individual firm. If you're too polished, people could perceive you as pandering or condescending. That doesn't advance the ball.

MEDIA
Jobs in the media-television and film production, magazine publishing-generally inspires a creative take on business attire. Translation; Suits with an edge. Associate appropriate attire, down wear business appropriate attire, often with a hip twist.
Editors and assistants tend to follow suit. The magazine dress code tends to be business attire, often with a streak of high style.
It's rare for high style to wander into the hallowed halls of book editors, where the common dress is business casual to business appropriate. The marketing side of book publishing thrives on timeliness and trends, and stylish, business appropriate attire is a common uniform

REAL ESTATE
Clothes that enable your clients to relate to you, “The leather pants, a denim blazer, look like them so they can connect with you.” But as they say, location is everything. In contrast, a real estate agent working in a suburb of Chicago might wear a colorful suit, gold jewelry, and conservative heels.

PUBLIC RELATIONS
You have to satisfy those expectations down to the clothes, which mean suits with a dash of fashion. For those in non-executive PR positions, No matter what level the employee, however, one rule always applies: The nature of the client can sway the dress code. "If you're with a very corporate client, you have to know enough to streamline your look and be a little bit more conservative.”

ARCHITECTURE
The dress code in architecture is similar to that in advertising. No jeans, no sneakers, no T-shirts. Casual but neat, and more often than not, creative!! But when you go to any kind of client meeting, the dress is business attire. Translation: Suits. As with any industry, larger, more formal firms can often have more conservative dress codes.

ACCOUNTING
You are in a position of giving advice, and you get more respect when you dress appropriately. Generally, those in executive accounting positions tend to dress in corporate attire. But for all other accounting titles-book keepers, semi senior accounting firms may be corporate casual while larger firms to dress professionally, aka business appropriate.

INTERNET
The internet has evolved into just another medium, and the dress code is media dress. The styles are slightly edgier, there is more individuality. While anything-goes are still the rule at dot-coms, slacker khakis have begun to be traded in for cutting-edge fashion and the latest techno looks. You see heels, but they're not conservative, pumps- it's a thicker heel, an interesting toe.

For clearer picture of the formal dress appropriate for different industries please have a look at our catalogue by clicking at the following link. http://www.mycustomtailor.com/shops.php?ShopID=1

Power Outfit

2009-02-16T18:53:00.001-08:00

Make sure your clothes are statement makers, but that the statement never speaks louder than you do. Just because you can afford designer logos doesn’t mean they’re right for you. Are they compatible with your professional message? And just because you can buy the very best suits doesn’t absolve you from needing the services of the very best tailor.

CLOTHES NO LONGER TALK, THEY COMMAND
A woman in a position of authority must project an equal amount of distinction in her dress up. The cornerstone of the power wardrobe is still the suit, but at this stage of the game, it packs an extra punch.

Now it’s time to fine-tune your wardrobe with clothes of exceptional quality and unmistakable style. The goal: A closet full of statement making clothes that communicate success. To cultivate a collection that convey personal and professional style; and to dress, when the situation demands, casually but with authority.

Bespoke Single-Breasted
The most formal of suits, the single-breasted version has sharp lines, and notched lapel give a disciplined buttoned-up feel that adds up to create an impression of powerful authority. Fabric is a key; at this stage, a suit is only as good as its fabric. Look for light, almost silky wool that has a graceful drape and doesn’t wrinkle easily.

A tailor made straight skirt to the knee, slightly nipped-in waist, an impeccable fit. For ultimate conviction, pair with a crisp white shirt. Make sure the collar lies flat on the suit lapels. Keep buttoned up except for either top or bottom button.

Coat dress
There is no mistaking the seriousness of the business when the fabric is worked in a menswear pattern: Pinstripes, Chalk Stripes, Glen Plaids, Mini Hounds tooth are all boardroom contenders.

For a more relaxed alternative consider pairing with a black turtleneck, knee-high boots and opaque tights in fall or winter. If belted, consider replacing the companion belt with one of higher caliber.

Long Jacket
The self-assured silhouette only works when the jacket is fitted anything loose will look frumpy ; and it must be worn only with its matching companion piece, whether it’s a skirt, dress, or pants.

A single-breasted jacket, pocket flaps that lie flat, with a shirt in a similar hue, a scoop-neck cashmere sweater, or nothing but a set of pearls, all combines together an elegant authority.

Color is POWERFUL.
RED = Confidence, leadership, independence. Useful for presentations; shows security in one’s role. Attracts attention

Color is quick means of communicating authority and style. A power color is an added asset: It commands attention, conveys control, and, when properly chosen, sends a consistent message about your workplace identity.

ALL BLACK = Serious sophisticated, determined powerful and practical in urban environments.

Own a color Pick a shade you like and make it your own. Wear it consistently. Choose one or two other colors that complement your personal uniform. A monochromatic look a suit and shirt of matching colors has high impact and is also elongating.

Pattern
Patterns pilfered from menswear can pack masculine punch, while adding texture and diversity to your wardrobe. Balancing bold pattern with a simple tailored silhouette and feminine detail is a key.

Quantity Counts: Composed of highly designed, coordinated pieces, a power suit makes a statement. And a statement is remembered. Therefore owning just one or two is not sufficient. At this stage of the game, you need, and can afford more.

Tailor: A tailor you trust implicitly is crucial. Valuable traits to look for: Utter expertise in what is possible and what is not. Invisible hand work, Thoroughness - someone who when hemming pants, measures both the front and the back; when altering a skirt, measures from the floor up; someone who teaches you. Mouth is the best reference.

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Design Your Wardrobe

2008-03-09T21:17:00.001-07:00

At the beginning of your career, you dressed appropriately to show respect. But at this point you want to have the respect of others, and the first step toward achieving that goal is dressing with authority. Looking the part is obviously not enough when it comes to acquiring power in the workplace you have to earn that but how you present yourself signals more than ever your position and prestige. By now, your seniority has also provided you with the resources to invest in the proper clothing befitting your status. This chapter will present the appropriate suits, shirts, ties, and accessories of the power wardrobe. Acquiring a power wardrobe is not simply about the amount of clothing you have although the more options you have although the more options you have at this stage of your career, the better. What you’re after now is quality. Finer materials and better-made clothing are what distinguish the distinguish the distinguished at this level. And when you have truly achieved a certain level of power, the power wardrobe will be incidental: Your own personal style will matter most.

“The power to define the situation is the ultimate power.”

Suits

Navy wool crepe
Unlike the navy suit you interviewed in, the wool crepe suit has a textured and slightly nubby feel to it. Wool crepe is more twisted than the worsted that most suits are made of, which means that it will wrinkle less. This makes a wool crepe suit ideal for travel. You can wear it no the plane or pack it without the fear of looking like a rumpled mess when you arrive. Like the original interview suit, a navy wool crepe suit goes with just about every shirt-and-tie combination. An overall bulletproof selection. An overall bulletproof selection.

Gray Bird’s-Eye
The name of the pattern refers to the minute black-and-white woven design, which actually looks gray. A smart-looking variation on the gray worsted wool suit, the bird’s eye has a lot of texture. Keep in mind that although it looks like a solid from far away, up close it is actually a very tiny pattern, so don’t mix it with small-patterned shirt and ties.

Single-Breasted Pinstripe
While not as dandyish as the double-breasted version this suit is no less formal. What matters here is the pinstripe: it is the pattern of power. It’s also the most slimming design for heavier men the vertical stripes provide the illusion of height and diminish width. When choosing a shirt, beware of stripes that fight with the stripes of the suit. And for an added flourish, try a pocket square or a handkerchief.

Tan Gabardine
Think of it as the navy suit for warm weather. If you live in a cold-weather city, it’s ideal for spring and summer; in warm locales it’s appropriate all year-round. When pairing shirts and ties with this suit, remember to keep them relatively light. White or light blue shirts will always work, and pale pastels are safe as well. In terms of ties, you can go a bit darker than the shirts, but in general navy or dark green would be the safest.

Double-Breasted Pinstripe
This classic style and pattern adds up to a suit you can take to the bank. Or a lawyer’s office. Or an important business meeting. Double-breasted meaning the left side of the jacket buttons on right side is a more dramatic suit cut than single-breasted, providing greater impact. The wide lapels often scare some men away, but as long as you don’t look as though an F-14 can land on your chest, you’re safe. In all this is a classic suit that power.

Shirts

Attention to Detail
Okay, so you’ll never be a designer, but you still like your clothes a certain way shirts that are wider in the chest, collars that are spread extra wide and now you can afford to have them tailored just for you.

MADE TO ORDER
A custom-made shirt is unquestionably an extravagance, but it’s also a great way to express your sartorial individuality. Typically, from the first fitting |(Where a tailor will take more measurements than you knew you had) to the final product, it takes several weeks to the final produce a custom-made shirt.
While you can expect to pay anywhere from $75 to several hundred dollars for one, the fit will be perfect. Also, the patterns and materials (frequently sea Island of Egyptian cotton) will be superior to ready-made shirts.

SNAP COLLAR
For a more sophisticated variation one the button down collar, try hidden snaps.

CUSTOM-MADE SHIRT
A custom-made shirt has expert stitching around the collar and placket. Look for 14 or more stitches per inch.

Blazers---a wardrobe of Basics
Like white shirts, khakis, and jeans, can a man really own enough blue blazers? Probably. But the point is, a blazer is so versatile and will get so much use that, after a while, having more than one becomes necessary. How you choose additional jackets depends on your needs: Would you like a line blazer for summer and one in cashmere for winter? How about a double-breasted jacket instead of a single?
TWO-BUTTON
Made popular by JFK, the two-button single-breasted jacket has remained an American favorite. It flatters most, since its elongated frontal V shows more shirt, thus lengthening the line of a body.
DOUBLE-BREASTED
Traditionally, the double-breasted blazer is navy blue, with six metal buttons, only two of which actually function. Further characteristics are side vents, two flap pockets, a breast pocket, and peaked lapels. For business, metal buttons may be considered too casual. They can be replaced with horn.
THREE-BUTTON
A three-button jacket is considered fashionable. Most designers make them so only the top two buttons close, although some men prefer the more classic three, in which the lapel rolls to the second button and the top one remains unbuttoned and hidden behind the lapel.

Shirt &Tie Combinations
As you spend more money on shirts and ties, mix ability becomes essential. Why have a $100 tie if it only goes with one shirt and suit? So, when expanding this area of the wardrobe, thing about all the potential combinations with your existing clothes. Solid ties are particularly versatile, as they go with even the wildest patterned shirt . In general, though, you want the tie to relate to a color in the shirt or jacket.
1. Plaid shirt with spread collar and stripe knit tie.
2. Gingham shirt with solid navy tie.
3. Multistoried shirt with tonal tie.
4. Lavender oxford with small pattern.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Shirt And Ties Combos

2008-02-12T01:52:00.001-08:00

As you start to build your shirt collection, variation is critical. Different fabrics, collars, and styles can make even the most basic shirts seem unique. Also, as you add patterns, be cognizant of what will with your jackets and ties.

SHIRT&TIE (BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR)
The name refers to the collar, which buttons to the shirt. And the statement is classic conservative. If you looked any more Ivy League you’d have ivy growing on you. Though the most casual of dress shirts. Therefore, it looks best with a sport jacket, not with a suit. It also is the best shirt for travel because wrinkles don’t show as much.

TIE: SMALL DOT , TONAL

SHIRT&TIE (Spread Collar)
Once thought of as a European-style shirt, the spread collar is now an American staple. Made of broadcloth, it gives a little more polish to a suit and tie. This shirt style looks best on men with thin faces as it will give the appearance of width.

SHIRT&TIE (Point Collar)
French blue, a deep blue shirt that also has European roots, can be worn with either a straight or spread collar. Learn the blue this shirt looks especially natty with a navy suit and a dark blue tie.

TIE: SMALL DOT , TEXTURED

SHIRT&TIE (Oxford Cloth Shirts)
A button-down oxford cloth shirt is classic preppy. It is the starter shit worm with the starter tie, usually a rep, for most boys. The oxford cloth is a rougher weave and less formal than most other cottons, so a button-down collar is fitting. It can be blue or white, even yellow or pink. It’s relaxed and friendly and priced, perfect for casual dress-down days, while being business appropriate. Dress up with a tie and blazer. Keep away from formal suits or occasions.

TIE: CLUB , PAISLEY

SHIRT&TIE (Stripe Shirts)
Shirt with thin, vertical stripes in one color are a business staple. The wider the stripe, however, the more eccentric the wearer. The same goes for multicolored striped shirts; anything more than two hues is a bit much. Pairing ties with striped shirts can be trick at times. Solids are always safe. Striped ties work well as long as the shirt. The same goes for patterns they should be bolder than the stripe.

TIE: LARGE DOT , REP

SHIRT&TIE (Colorful Shirts)
Color is an excellent way to break out of the monotony of white and blue. For now, light pastels pink, yellow, purple, even green are the safe way to go. They express individuality without being gaudy. Since the shirt is already adding a splash of color, try not to overpower it with an equally colorful tie. And be careful not to clash colors say, a bright red with a pink.

TIE: PATTERN , REP

SHIRT&TIE (Pattern Shirts)
Less formal than a stripe, a patterned shirt is ideal for days when you are feeling more casual but still want to look professional. It will likely, but not necessarily, have a button-down collar. Whether it’s a gingham check, a plaid, or a tatter sall a patterned shirt is best worn under a sport jacket, and paired with a tie. Solids often work best.

TIE: TEXTURED , SMALL PATTERN

SHIRT&TIE (French Cuff Shirts)
No dress shirt is as formal as white with French cuffs. Unlike those with barrel cuffs, shirts with French cuff links. They come with straight or spread collars. This shirt looks best with a suit, though it can be worn with a sport jacket. Either way, save it for lunch with the boss.

KNOTTY BUT NICE NECKTIES
The best pair of first cuff is a set of navy silk knots. Simple yet elegant (and very inexpensive), they come in almost every color and combination.

HOW TO CHOOSE: CUFF LINKS
When putting on silk knots start inside and work out.
When putting on cuff links, align holes, then start at the top and work down. Or call for help.

TIE: SMALL PATTERN - CUFF LINK: SILVER OVAL
TIE: SOLID - CUFF LINK: SILK KNOT

POLOS
For those who can dress down (somewhat) at the office, a polo shirt or sweater is a smart option. With the advent of casual Fridays, it became a new classic. In cold weather, a long-sleeve merino polo is ideal (you can also put a white, navy or black T-shirt underneath one), and in warmer climates, a smooth knit polo with a longer collar works best.

WORD TO THE WISE
Save those pique polo (those with nub by cotton fabric) for the weekends. They are too laid-back for the office.

Sweaters
A sweater at the office is really only needed in cold weather climates, but in some workplaces it may be acceptable office attire without a jacket. If you’re wearing it with a jacket, merino wool is the most lightweight and shouldn’t affect the fit of the coat. (Nor should a slightly heavier cashmere vest.) V-neck is better than crew neck, especially if you are wearing a tie. Charcoal and navy would be the colors to start with, and in general, sweaters go best with sport jackets not suits.

BLACK V-NECK MERINO SWEATER
WHITE SHIRT
PAISLEY TIE

Following the rule of two solids and one pattern, this combination works well with a pair of gray flannel or black trousers. The simple pairing of black and white is offset by the burst of color and pattern in the tie.

NAVY V-NECK LAMB’S WOOL VEST
GINGHAM SHIRT-SOLID BLUE TIE
A dressed-up alternative for a casual Friday, this combination adds a bit of polish to an otherwise relaxed shirt and sweater paring. Note how the solid blue tie doesn’t compete with the shirt. This could work well with a pair of gray or tan trousers and a blue blazer.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Tailored Clothing For Smart Dresser

2007-10-23T22:39:00.000-07:00

Tailored Clothing For Smart Dresser

LAWS OF DRESSING
1. You don’t have to spend a lot on clothes to look like you’ve spent a lot.
2. Dark color will always look more authoritative.
3. Classics are classics for a reason.
4. Dressing appropriately is like having good manners.
5. A tie should always be tied and in place, not worn half mast.
6. Nobody sees the label.
7. Quality is more important than quantity.
8. When in doubt, wear navy or Grey.
9. Clothes don’t make the man. (Though they can fake the man.)

TIPS OF SMART SHOPPING
1. Dress appropriately for the stores you will be shopping in.
2. Wear a white dress shirt, dress socks, and the shoes you would wear for the outfit.
3. Always try things on.
4. Always look in the mirror , preferably a there-way mirror
5. If it doesn’t look good in the store, it won’t look good at home.
6. There’s nothing with the lights in the store.
7. When something is on sale, don’t buy it unless you would have bought it at full price if you could have afforded it.
8. Something that’s a little big can be tailored to fit. Something that’s tight will only get tighter.
9. Shoes don’t stretch.
10. The salesperson is supposed to tell you it looks great on you.

DEADLY SINS
1. Jackets that are too tight in the shoulders, snug in the waist, and won’t button make you look like a trussed turkey.
2. Wear socks to the office, unless you work at the beach.
3. Just because it looked good on you ten years ago, doesn’t mean it still does.
4. Until you see the animals lining up in toes, don’t have your pants tailored too short. They should have a break. Don’t let your jacket be too short, your bottom line should never be visible.
5. Belt are to hold up your pants not some sort of technology tool holder. Pagers, phones and other digital elements belong in jacket pockets.
6. Pants that are too baggy look silly and pants that are too tight just look uncomfortable.
7. Wearing suspenders and a belt is redundant and redundant.
8. You will look like a squeezed tube of toothpaste if your shirt is too tight in the collar.
9. Hoods on overcoats.
10. If you have to ask if it goes together, it probably doesn’t.

Strategic Dressing

WHO LOOKS PROFESSIONAL AND WHAT ARE THEY WEARING?
One of the basic rules of office attire is: Dress for the job you want to have, not the job you have. So look around. Who has that job now? And how does he dress for that job? Now, who does he work for and so on.

Every office or corporation has a dress code. Learning to read yours properly is a major step toward getting ahead.

ALL DRESSED UP AND SOMEWHERE TO GO

Once you have cracked the office dress code, you have to consider what to wear for different professional occasions and situations. What may be appropriate for a morning meeting might not work for a business lunch or for a presentation. Begin by asking yourself what message you want to send and then find the appropriate clothes in your closet. Here a few different scenarios:Leading a meeting Obviously what you’re after here is authority, and nothing says authority like a suit. After all, there’s reason why when people refer to management they call them “suits” Since, in many offices, men remove their jackets while working, pay attention to the shirt you’re wearing: Make sure it’s crisp and clean.Giving a presentation When giving a presentation, you clearly want to have authority and draw attention to yourself. The key here is not to draw so much attention that you take away from the presentation. Once again, a suit is called for with a shirt and tie. And here is how you draw attention to yourself: With the tie. Without being too ostentations or visually distracting, the shirt-and-tie combination should reflect power. Perhaps a shirt with French cuffs and a woven tie?Client lunch It is, of course, most important to come across as professional, but you must also be able to read the culture of the culture of the person you are meeting. Do they wear suits? Sport jacket? What about ties? The goal here is to be yourself but, at the client by dressing more formally than they do; rather, show them the proper respect by dressing up more than you normally do if their corporate culture is more formal than yours.Job review This is just like a job interview so look your best. If you normally wear a suit to office, do so now. If you don’t usually wear one, doing so will only make you look stiff and feel uncomfortable. In that case, you should still dress up: Wear a sport jacket and tie. Show that you care, but don’t look at thought you’re trying too hard.Boss wants to have drinks First of all, relax. It’s only good. If you wear in trouble, you would go to boss, the boss, the boss wouldn’t come to you. That said, look sharp. Yes, it’s a social to show your personally. In other words, wear a tie that the boss might admire. Or a unique pair of cuff inks that might spark a conversation. And don’t drink too much.From – Dress Smart for Men

We remain with Best Regrads,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Cotton - Hemp - Jute - Custom clothing

2006-09-12T22:14:00.000-07:00

COTTON, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world.
Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability.
Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends.
Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant's seed pod The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe".
Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons.
Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.

Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.

HEMP is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric.
The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.

RAMIE is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fiber. It is natural white in color, has a high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fiber from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.

JUTE is a glossy fiber from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting. These days jute is also being used in clothing by top designers to create great looking breathable formal and casual wear that does not wrinkle as much as linen - yet carries the casual drape and feel of a rich natural fiber

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Clothes Do Make The Man ! - Or At Least The First Impression

2006-08-14T21:41:00.000-07:00

Clothes Do Make The Man! - Or At Least The First Impression

"You never get a second chance to make a first impression"
-- Will Rogers

How important really is what we wear?
Is there a cause/effect in how we are treated by the world? Does it make a difference in getting someone to help you in a Department store, or being seated at a good table in a restaurant? Can’t people look through all the superficial and see the real us?

Fortunately, we have some scientific evidence to support what you wear does make a difference in how you influence the world around you. Maybe we didn’t want to believe (but suspected) the real reason that guy down the hall who always dressed great, but didn’t know poop is now a vice president!

When your credibility is crucial, in situations such as job interviews, court testimony, sales presentations and first dates (or even second and third dates) it is important to made a "good" first impression.

Behavioral scientists tell us that this "first impression" is a strong one. And the process of sizing you up is on a subconscious/emotional level of the brain. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less and can be so strong that it could take as much as five years to erase.

Don’t you think it’s easier to make a great first impression with you appearance and then follow up by showing what a capable, impressive and trustworthy person you are with a winning performance?

We’ve all heard the expression "You can’t judge a book by its cover". If you agree, it’s a good thing you’re not in publishing. Publishing houses have long since proven that a cover may not tell you what’s inside a book, but the cover is the reason that we pick up one or the other off the rack. Until a book is picked up, no sale is made!

A good example of "how you look being more important than what you say" is the first Kennedy-Nixon presidential debate. Radio listeners thought that Nixon had won while TV watchers gave Kennedy the win. Kennedy looked great, fresh and vigorous while Nixon appeared tired and rumpled. The TV audience gave more credibility to what they saw than what they heard.

When I describe someone as an assistant manger at a fast food restaurant you immediately conjure an image of that person, maybe without much conscious thought. When I mention a high level executive you get another, different image in your mind. There is a definite picture of a person with credibility, authority and power – a professional image.

Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and utilize the knowledge to enhance and control how you are accepted?

The research reports that people notice the following about another human being and in this order. Remember this is a prehistoric/subliminal evaluation.

1.Skin color
2.Sex
3.Age

We can do nothing about the first three, but we can work on the next four factors.

4.Bearing This includes height (taller people receive higher starting salaries), head movement (nodding is negative with regard to perception of authority) and body language (smiling is perceived as weakness if over done).

5.Appearance Since about 90% of us are covered by apparel, the clothing we choose makes a significant impact. This is such an important area, and on in which we can effect the greatest impression. We’ll discuss it detail below.

6.Direct Eye Contact Don’t stare, but look others in the eye 40 - 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide or that you don’t know what you are talking about.

7.Speech 55% of communication is non-verbal. It’s not what you say, but how you say it.

What you wear makes a difference in how you influence the world.
Why not take advantage of this. Since 90% of us is covered with clothing, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact and one area where we can effect the greatest impression!

Dressing badly can be taken as contempt for other people or the situation you are in. Clothing is a way to show others that you have respect and consideration for the situation. If you have respect for the theatre, you don’t show up in shorts and a T-shirt to a Broadway play. (The same goes for church, a job interview, etc.).

So it’s not a question of being judged. We are judged thousands of times everyday.

It’s a question of whether we want to have an affect on that judging or not.

Are we ready to see what we can do to present ourselves in the best package to project a credible, professional image?

Here are some basic tips, and faux pas to avoid in order to look your best:

1.Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.

2.Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes. Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.

3.Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross you legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front. Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4.Wearing both a belt and braces (suspenders) make you look insecure. One or the other please. And if you opt for the braces, please make certain they are the kind that fasten inside your trousers with buttons.
It’s very easy to have a tailor or the alterations person at your dry cleaners put brace buttons on your pants if they don’t already have them. The metal clip-ons are for the guys who wear short sleeve shirts with ties.

5.Socks should match your trousers.

6.Belts should match your shoes in color and texture.
7.Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.

8.Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.

9.Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men’s jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend.

About Buttons on Mens Suits
Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.

With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.

Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.

Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.

10.Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing ½” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

11.No pens or pocket protectors in your shirt pocket. Pens go in your suit coat inside pocket, out of sight. Also applies to telephones, etc. worn on the belt. Think about getting a nice briefcase!

12.Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases accessibility.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.

Men’s clothing, unlike women’s, is more traditional and less fashion oriented. It takes several seasons for men’s designers to change even slightly the width of a necktie.

The male business suit is virtually unchanged in 70 years! Part of that is the progression to perfection that has resulted in attire that looks great on most men. The theory is once you reach perfection, don’t mess with it!

So why even bother with fashion? Why not choose acceptable classic clothing items and just stick with those?

It’s important to know what the trends are, so you can update your wardrobe periodically with the fashion items IF they fit your own style and body type.

You don’t want to still be wearing a light blue member’s only jacket and red polyester Sansabelt pants, do you?

We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Hire A Custom Tailor To Make Mens Suits And Mens Shirts

2006-07-30T23:51:00.000-07:00

If you can't find the clothes you're looking for at a store, consider having them made. Good tailors can create garments that reflect your personal style and fit your figure impeccably. They also can perform minor miracles when you need an item updated or altered.

The Steps:
1. Ask friends or your favorite online custom tailoring site for recommendations. A local fabric store is another possible source for referrals. Otherwise, look up "Custom Tailors" in any search engine.

2. Talk to tailors about their skills and experience. Do they specialize in a certain sort of work, such as bridal gowns or suits? Women's or men's clothing?

3. Check availability and turnaround time. If possible, give the tailor a deadline that's a few weeks before you need an item, in case of an unexpected delay.

4. Inquire about their rates. Although tailors should be able to give you a ballpark estimate, they'll need specifics before they will give you a firm price. Good websites though will display their pricing upfront.

5. For custom designs, ask to make sure they can replicate the style and design you have in mind.

6. Send any garments or pictures that would help illustrate what you'd like done. If a tailor is reluctant to try something, ask why; his or her expert opinion might change your mind.

7. Take advantage of what tailors can do to update or alter existing garments. Generally, it's far easier to take in or shorten clothes than to let them out or lengthen them. Adding cuffs, narrowing pants legs and changing necklines are all possible. Complexity adds to the price, and some alterations aren't worth it unless the piece is very high-quality, or a beloved, irreplaceable garment.

8. Once the tailor has a firm idea of what you expect, get a description of the work, the price and the delivery date in writing.

Overall Tips:
Make sure that when sending in sizes, you measure both legs and arms for symmetry.

The more complex the job, the more the measurements and details will be required by the tailor.

What to look for:Personal recommendation
Skills, experience, and specialization
Availability and price
Knowledge and thirst for detail.

Thailand and other Asian countries are known for having tailors and seamstresses who make exquisitely crafted custom-tailored clothes in a few days (or even a few hours) for unbelievable prices. A suit can be as inexpensive as $200 or shirts can be as economical as $40 for a good custom made one.

Steps:
1. Ship any item of clothing that you want copied and send magazines and clothing catalogs that show designs you want made. A talented tailor can copy many garments swiftly and skillfully.

2. Ask other shoppers, view their testimonials to save your self time and money.

3. Browse fabrics, either at the tailor's site or in fabric stores. In addition to the variety of silks in Asia--such as raw silk, print silk, patterned silk and brocade--you can buy cotton and other fabrics. Flip through swatches in the site and tell them the fabrics and patterns. A tailor will charge for any fabric or trims you do not supply.

4. Give the tailor adequate guidance. If you're using a picture for reference or duplicating an article of clothing, explain any modifications you want to the piece. For example, perhaps you like a dress shirt in a photo, but you don't want the chest pocket, or you may want a slit up both sides of a suit coat, not just the back center.

5. Discuss price in advance. Expect to pay a flat rate that includes measurement and fittings. If ordering more than a few items you can always expect some sort of discount - either a flat dollar or percentage amount or a free custom made item.

6. Find out when the clothes will be ready. However, make sure you allow enough time.

You can have clothes custom-made for friends and family if you have their measurements. Ask if the tailor will continue the relationship via mail, if you want future garments created.

What to look for:Clothing you want copied
Magazines and catalogs
Trusted referrals
Quality fabrics
Adequate guidance
Upfront price agreement

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

You Can Wash Silk At Home

2006-06-04T20:17:00.000-07:00

The following newspaper article has some suggestion concerning read-made silk clothing -

Labels reading “dry clean only” are a a put-off to many who view them as surcharges on their
Original investment. A silk blouse that is going to cost you $25 in cleaning fees over te nest year is on longer a $100 blouse, but a $125 blouse.

And sine silk, cotton and other natural fibers have been around a lot longer than the dry cleaner, why the label?

Self-protection. Care instructions are required by law, and it is much easier for stores and manufacturers to advise dry cleaning than it is to rely on the customer to take the time and patience required to clean and maintain fine fabrics.

Yet, the care and feeding of fine fabrics is on more difficult, or time consuming, than regular hair care, according to a spokesman for a silk company.

Silk is a protein fiber, like hair, he says, You should not do anything to silk you could not do to your hair. You should not use hot water, use lukewarm or cool water. You should use only the purest of soaps with no detergents. Fry it with sense. You would not take your hair and mangle it up, fry it gently and air dry it.

Two keys to determining if a garment will wash at home are color and construction. Brightly colored, brilliantly colored, dark colors and patterned silks are better left to the dry cleaner.
“It is almost impossible to have color-fast colors in silk”, he says “with a brilliant fuchsia blouse you will lose the color less quickly with fry cleaning.

Garments with complicates construction, lining and trim also candidates for the dry cleaners, Fortunately, with the natural look as popular as natural material, most silk blouses and dresses are simply constructed these days.

If you garment passes these two tests, what is the next step?

Try your cleaning the garment the first two times. The steaming part of the process may help set the dye and if there is any shrinkage left, it will shrink at the dry cleaner.

The procedure for hand washing at home is really simple:
Fill the sink with lukewarm water,(70-90 degrees is fine). Use a natural soap in a liquid from such as Woolite, lvory Liquid, or a Casstile soap.
Place the unfolded garment in the water and let it soak for a few minutes. Then gently agitate it by plunging the garment up and down.
Drain the water out and rinse the garment several times, again with lukewarm or cool water. If you are unsure about any soap residue, smell the garment. It should not smell soapy or scented.
After careful rinsing, remove the garment and hang to dry on a plastic hanger or a wooden hanger padded with wash cloth. Do not wring the water out. Over the bathtub is the ideal to hang the garment since it will drip.

Silks dry very quickly so it is recommended to check back in an hour or so and gently separate the sides of the garment so it will dry smoothly and need less pressing.
For pressing there are two routes. The first is to press the garment while still damp, on the wrong side with a dry iron set at about 250 degrees.

The second route is to use a steam iron. Here the temperature adjustment is crucial since if it is too high it will scorch the silk and if it is too low it may drip water and spot the silk. If you do get a water drop, it is not permanent. Just immerse in water, dry and press again.

A quick test for color-fastness is to take a part of the garment that will not show, such as the facing, and dampen it with wash cloth. Then place two white paper towels on either side of the fabric and bear down as hard as possible. If any color shows up on the towels, you that the silk is not color-fast.

The biggest enemy of silks is the stain caused by perspiration, especially combined with deodorant. To lessen the damage from perspiration you can use a natural form of deodorant such as baking soda, talcum powder or even cologne. If all else fails, you can make dress shields out of lightweight material. It’s not the perspiration that is so bad, you need to try to keep the sticky deodorant off the fabric.
(Above ideas taken from local newspaper)

The following are our suggestions:

SEWING WITH SILK – HELPFUL HINTS ON THE CARE OF SILK FABRIC
Characteristics – it is only natural for silks to have some irregularities, this the nature of 100%, the silk fabric – surface variations in silk are to be expected and are desirable. Silk, after all, is a natural fiber, and variations in the weave of silk fabrics are characteristic of the fabric and are in no way to be considered defective. We concur with the hand washing recommendations, but suggest the following for dry cleaning.

Dry Cleaning – We recommend bulk dry cleaning at a Laundromat, when this facility is available in your city. (We have heard from a few of our customers that they cannot find a bulk dry cleaner.) This method is one in which you can dry clean up to 5 pounds of garments for an inexpensive fee, like $4.50 in our area. Your garments will come out beautiful and require very little touch-up pressing (with a steam iron set on “low wool” and on the wrong side, using a press cloth as may be needed). There is no need to use the expensive single garment method if you have a dependable bulk facility. You may preshrink your silk fabric by the bulk dry cleaning method before cutting and sewing – include the linings, interfacing, etc.

SILKS TREATED PROPERLY WILL REPAY YOU TIME AND AGAIN WITH THEIR HARDWEARING AND LONGLASTING BEAUTY AND LUXURY

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Store Your Clothes... Properly

2005-06-20T22:39:00.000-07:00

Are you tired of seeing your clothes piled up on the bedroom chair? Do you wonder why your garments require ironing every time you put them on? Better yet, have you ever stretched out your favorite sweater by hanging it? If so, it's high time for you to learn how to fold and hang your clothes -- the right way.Properly storing your threads will keep them looking their best and extend their "shelf life," and allow you to maximize your closet space. The first step is determining which items in your wardrobe should be hung and which should be folded.

What you should fold
# Fold your sweaters (especially the heavier ones), T-shirts and underwear.
# Knitwear: If hung, knitted garments will likely stretch eventually.
# Garments made from stretchy fabrics such as spandex and nylon, to make sure they maintain their original shape.
# Relatively fine or delicate articles of clothing.

Folding tips
Everyone has their own secret technique when it comes to folding shirts, but in the end, it doesn't matter what a T-shirt or sweater looks like once it's sitting in a drawer. The technique you use to fold your garments isn't so important. Some prefer to fold their sweaters in half before folding the sleeves in; others prefer to start by folding the sleeves and then folding the sweater in half. Either way doesn't make much of a difference. What is important is that your garment must be flat and wrinkle-free before you start folding it, and the fabric must remain nicely spread out throughout the folding process. By doing so, you'll keep your garments free of creases and will therefore get to skip out on ironing before wearing them. Where shape is concerned, some prefer to fold their garments in a perfect square while others prefer a rectangular shape. Just keep in mind that a rectangular fold will help you maximize deeper storage spaces while a square fold is more practical for spaces with minimal depth.extra folding tips. Mix it up. Once in a while, try to alternate the way you fold your garments in order to prevent creases from setting in permanently. Make smaller piles. Avoid piling up too many sweaters or T-shirts in order to reduce the strain on those at the bottom of the pile. The extra weight might emphasize the creases in the garments and might even cause them to set in permanently. Use tissue. If you're a perfectionist, then you might want to place a thin layer of white tissue between folds to help prevent creasing. Because this technique is rather time-consuming and costly, it's usually limited to retail stores. Stay organized. Always try to keep your closet neatly organized. Separate your Ts from your long-sleeve knits, and your heavyweight sweaters from your lighter ones. It will make choosing what to wear for that hot date that much easier.

what you should hang
# Pants, with the exception of pajamas, track pants and sweat pants.
# Suits and items like button-down shirts, blazers and overcoats.

Hanging tips
When hanging your garments, make sure that they are evenly spaced out and easily accessible. They should drape naturally rather than be bunched up together; this will prevent them from creasing and allow the air to circulate for proper ventilation.

Shirts
When hanging a shirt, make sure it's completely buttoned up in order to keep the collar in place and prevent the neckline from creasing, and in some cases, getting distorted. (In the instance where a shirt doesn't button up all the way to the top, you can always use a safety pin to hold the collar in place.) For heavier shirts, consider crossing the sleeves around and over the hanger to prevent the sleeves from stretching.
Pants
Always remember to remove your belt from your slacks before hanging them; this will prevent the waistline from distorting. Next, fold your slacks along the pants' natural creases, so that both legs of the slacks lie flat against one another (parallel); make sure any pleats are folded down. You can use a hanger with clamps or slide the slacks onto a trouser rod or regular hanger. Note: Hangers with clamps or grip clips will make your life easier and help you maximize your closet space. If you use regular hangers instead, you might want to consider those with non-slip rubber to prevent the slacks from slipping off.

Choosing the best hangers
Plastic tubular hangers are known to offer minimal support and should be used for lighter items such as button-down shirts. Padded, shaped and traditional suit hangers are best for jackets, suits, thin shirts (i.e. linen), and tailored garments. The bigger the hanger, the more support your clothes receive, thereby helping to prevent unsightly creases. Wardrobe valets are also great for hanging suits, but they are rather expensive and will take up a lot of wardrobe space. Try to avoid wire hangers altogether -- you know, those you get from your local dry cleaner. When used to hang pants, they can create a crease right at your pants' thigh level. They can also rust and may eventually stain your clothing. You can also find various types of practical hangers made especially for hanging belts and ties.

More storing tips...
Empty your pockets. Remember to remove everything from your pockets, as some bulky items could distort a garment's shape. Air out your garments. Before hanging or folding your clothes, make sure they are completely dry to prevent mildew from building up. As well, if you were hanging out in a smoky club, it's a good idea to let your clothes air out before storing them away (no one wants a smoke-infested closet). Do it right away. You should also get into the habit of hanging and folding your clothes as soon as you get undressed, unless they need to be aired out (see above). Don't hesitate to ask. Finally, if you don't know how to store a new garment, simply ask the salesperson for advice.

We remain with regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Abouth Dress

2005-05-30T23:11:00.000-07:00

The interview is, without a doubt, the time to make the very best possible impression you can make. This is a situation that calls for a serious business outfit. You, of course, want to be perceived as “serious” about the job, the company and the work you will be doing. You may be applying for a “casual dress” job, but the interview is always dress up! You will be trying to convince the person interviewing you that with your serious, conservative clothing - you are the type of person who will fit in at the company, will not “rock the boat”, or call unnecessary attention to yourself (team player). That’s the reason for conservative clothes and a reason to avoid fashion statements. Clothing is an expression of your respect and consideration for the situation. Candidates who ignore the importance of “Dressing to Impress” cannot be serious about the job in the minds of most interviewers. Interviewers expect interviewees to look a certain way so disappointing them at first sight is the “kiss of death”. You will need to look “right” to a stranger who is making an important evaluation of you within 30 seconds of meeting you. And since 90% of you is covered by clothing (hide those tattoos!) the clothing choices you make can have a significant impact, but can be used to your advantage. Most recruiters or personnel executives realize if you’re just starting your career you are on a limited clothing budget, but they will expect clean, appropriate clothing that fits with the style of the company where you are interviewing. In this competitive age, average doesn’t get you anywhere. To be successful you have to look the part. Don’t kid yourself that having a good degree, innovative ideas, enthusiasm, motivation and a great personality doesn’t mean that an appropriate appearance is of secondary importance. If you did not have the first qualities you would not have been invited to interview with the rest of the candidates.
Tip for the Future: After you get the job, dress for the position several levels higher (dress like your boss’s boss). If you want a promotion you must look like you deserve it and can fit into the post.

Some Specifics on What To Wear:

1.Wear a suit (it’s more serious than a sport coat).
2.Best colors are Navy or Charcoal Gray Single Breasted suit
3.Button your suit when you enter the interview office. You may unbutton it when you sit down. Button it back up when you stand to leave. Always leave the bottom button unbuttoned.

4.White shirt with a straight point collar. Only long sleeve please. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.

Note: Black vs. Navy For men black is not usually considered appropriate for business (social, funerals - yes). Navy is the dominate power color. Recently this has been challenged by female executives wearing black since black is such a powerful color.

There is a “rule” that in serious business dress you wear a minimum of one pattern and two solids. (the elements are your suit, shirt and tie). Men look great in tuxedos which are all solids! So the recommendation for interviewing is a solid color suit and shirt and a patterned tie. Loud shirts or ties will detract from one’s character and bearing.

Ties: Best choices are solid, stripes, or small patterns and an excellent color is burgundy or another serious color (avoid pink or yellow). Even pattern ties should be limited to a maximum of three colors. Small patterns in a tie are associated with the upper middle class and that is usually the group to which your interviewer belongs. Repp ties (stripes) are acceptable to pretty much everyone. Save the expensive “hip” ties for your try at glamorous creative jobs.
Suits: You can wear the same suit for subsequent interviews if you change the tie.
Tie length:The tie should be long enough to reach your belt buckle, and don’t forget the all important dimple! (the indentation under the knot).
Socks: should match your suit and not allow any skin to show when you cross your legs.
Trousers: should be long enough to cover your socks, and cuffs are a mark of a sophisticated businessman.
Belts:Leather belts with quiet, small belt buckles.
Shoes: One of the most important fashion factors, they are a strong statement of personality and executives (men and women!) notice shoes.

Grooming - Tips
1.No cologne (especially on your right hand, it rubs off when you shake hands)
2.Do check your breath.
3.Always have clean nails.
4.Never chew a gum (also a great tip for after you get the job)
5·Make sure you have a nice pen and carry it in the inside jacket pocket (not the shirt pocket).
6·Name tags go on the right (easier to read when you shake hands) although most people stick them on the left.
7.Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases a feeling of accessibility. So short hair for power, long hair for friendliness.

Regards,
By www.mycustomtailor.com

Some Suggestions For Randomly Selected Faq's

2005-04-05T21:42:00.000-07:00

Q: How do I get the creases out of my tie?A: Put the two ends of the tie together and roll the tie around your finger like a belt. Slip it off your finger and leave it rolled up over night. The following morning, hang it up and the creases should be gone.

Q: What traditional top coats style are to be worn over a suit? A: The most popular are the 3 button full length top coat or the 6 button double-breasted top coat. (See top coat style section at www.clothesforsuccess.com for pictures)

Q: What are the different types of tie knots and how do they look? A: There are three basic tie knots. The Four In Hand, which makes a small knot.
The Half Windsor, which makes a medium knot.
The Full Windsor, which is the fullest knot.

Q: How do you button a single-breasted 4-button suit coat? A: You button the first three buttons and leave the bottom one un-buttoned.

Q: How should a shorter man dress to look taller?
A: A single-breasted suit two-button suit will elongate your torso because the tie stacks up on the buttons thus creating a vertical line. Vertical patterns such as subtle stripes create length as well. Avoid cuffs and wide leg trousers because it will make your leg look shorter. Wear a bright tie, which forces the viewer to look up, giving the illusion of length. Put this all together and optical grow an inch or two.

Q: How wide should the lapel on a sports coat be? Should it differ from that on a suit coat?A: It’s about the same, anywhere form 3 3/4 to 4 1/4 "

Q: Should you wear pattern or solid colored socks with a suite?A: Either is correct. If the sock has a pattern with a color, try to match the accent color in the sock to the tie or the accent color in the suit.

Q: How can I get promoted faster?A: Dress three levels above the position you are seeking and your employer will start seeing you that way.

Q: How do I dress if I am interviewing for an upper management position?A: An upper management position requires sophisticated clothing of high quality.

Q: How do I know what to wear for a job interview?A: Research the dress code of the company you will be interviewing with and dress to the highest level.

Q: What are the best fabrics for a formal top coat?A: Cashmere, Camelhair, Cashmere wool blend or a high quality wool.

Q: What is the proper length for a formal Top coat?A: 5’ 6" height 42", 5’8" height 44", 5’10" height 46" 6’ height 47 1/2" 6’2 height 49"

Q: How long should the sleeves be on a formal top coat?A: They should be about 1/2 past your wrist to cover the shirt and the sleeve

Q: What are my best color choices for a formal top coat?A: To be worn over a formal suit, wear Black, Navy, Charcoal or Camel

Q: Should I wear an undershirt under my dress shirts?A: Always! It’s a better look and also holds the perspiration from soiling the shirt.

Q: What do I do if I find moth holes in my clothes?A: You have to take out all your clothes and have them treated or cleaned to kill the eggs. Then treat the closet with cedar blocks, cedar chips or moth balls

Q: How can I convert a suit into a more casual outfit?A: Try wearing a solid navy, or charcoal suit. Wear it with a medium gray or medium blue shirt, black belt and black shoes. When you shed the suit coat and tie, it will look like a finished business casual outfit.

Q: If I am dressed business casual with a open collar dress shirt. Should I wear a undershirt?A: You will look like your displaying your underwear if you wear your Haines white undershirt. Instead buy different colored solid "T" shirts, and wear a tone on tone combination. Like a navy "T" shirt worn under a blue open collared dress shirt.

Q: If I am in sales and I am seeing a client who dresses very casual, such as jeans, how should I dress?A: Wear a sport coat and slacks. It will be casual but still put you in the advisory position.

Q: How should the sleeves of my suit coat fit?A: The sleeves should taper, gradually ending just over the wrist so the shirt cuff extends about 1/2 inch beyond the jacket sleeve.

Q: How long should the length of my pants be?A: The length of the pants in the front should touch the front of the shoe and angle towards the back of the shoe to fall just above the heel.

Q: Should I wear cuffs or no cuffs?A: Cuff or no cuff is a personal choice, however no cuffs will make you legs look longer.

Q: How often should I wear a suit?A: If you wear a suit everyday, daily rotation is essential. Never wear the same suit two days in a row.

Q: How much money should I spend on a suit?A: Always purchase the best suit your budget can afford

Q: What steps I need to take to look impeccable for my job interview?A: Decide what you will wear in advance and check that it is clean,pressed, no missing buttons etc.

Q: How much of the shirt collar should show out of the back of your suit coat?A: There should be 1/2 shirt collar showing.

Q: At what point of my waist should I wear my trousers?A: You should wear your trousers just slightly about the navel.

Q: What is a pick stitch?A: A pick stitch is a small running hand stitch at the edge of the lapel and collar of a suit, which is a hallmark of a fine, high end custom handmade suit.

Q: How am I judged by my appearance?A: Within the first 30 seconds of meeting someone, there are ten value judgments being made about you including: Your education level, socio economic level, success level, position, organizational skills, trustworthiness, likeability, competence, integrity, and even moral character.

Q: If you are short, which will make you look taller, a double breasted or
single-breasted suit?A: A single-breasted suit will make you look taller because of the vertical lines of the buttons.

Q: What subliminal message does the color brown give?A: Down to earth, friendly and forthcoming.

Q: When two candidates are being interviewed for the same position and everything about them is equal. Which one gets the job?A: It’s been documented when all is equal the candidate that gets the job, is the one with more polish and presence and who looks the part.

Q: In a recent survey, how do most people want to appear in their clothing?A: Most people want to appear, taller, slimmer and younger.

Q: What is the correct measurement for the sleeve length on a suit coat or sport coat?A: The measurement is 4 1/4 from your thumb to the edge of your sleeve.

Q: If I am wearing a standard point collar dress shirt, what tie knot should I tie?A: You should tie a basic four in hand tie knot.

Q: Should I have my shirts starched?A: Generally speaking, the cheaper the shirt, the more starch it needs to look crisp. Expensive ready to wear and custom shirts , if they are truly quality, should have more body.

Q: How can I look slimmer wearing casual clothes?A: Create a clean uninterrupted line, by wearing the same color theme through out.

Q: What’s the most common reason for a person looking a few pounds over weight?A: The most common reason, is because people tend to still try to squeeze into too small clothing.

Q: If I wear a shirt with a spread collar, what tie knot should I tie?A: You should tie a Windsor knot.

Q: What percentage of companies has reversed their dress codes, from casual to formal dress within the past year?A: 1 out of 5 (20%) have returned to business formal and the trend is picking up momentum.

Q: According to a recent article in the New York Times, What is the anticipated rise in productivity associated with the return of business formal dress in the work place? A: An estimated 3.6% rise in productivity. To put that in perspective, productivity rose only 1.8 percent across all sectors of the economy in 2001.

Q: What type of socks do I wear with a tuxedo?A: Very thin solid black in silky fabric

Q: Are side vents in suit coats and sport coats in style?A: Yes, it gives the impression of refinement, good taste and elegance.

Q: What is a gorge line?A: The gorge line is the distance from the shoulder at the neck point to the first button of your suit coat. For instance a new Italian model suit coat, might have a higher or lower gorge line for expression.

Q: How many buttons should there be on the sleeve of a suit or sport jacket?A: 3 or 4 buttons are acceptable. It’s a matter of personal taste

Q: Should I button all three buttons on a three button suit?A: No, You should only button the top two

Q: Regarding suits, what is meant by a "drop"?A: A "drop " is the difference between your chest and waist. For instance, typically a size 42 suit coat comes with a 36 waist trouser, so it would fit a gentleman with a 6 " drop.

Q: Are suits coming back?A: Yes in a big way! In 2002 1 out of 5 companies have reversed their dressing policies back to business formal and the trend is picking up momentum.

Q: What collar length is in style?A: The most current collar length is between 2 3/4 and 3 inches

Q: What width tie is in fashion?A: 4 to 4 1/4 inches at the widest point

Q: If I have a very serious business meeting what should I wear?A: A dark navy or charcoal suit, either solid or pinstripe.

Q: What is the current trend, pleated or non pleated pants?A: The "fashion" look today is non pleated pants. However most men prefer pleated

Q: How do I get wrinkles out of my suits, sport coats and dress slacks?A: Try steaming the bathroom and let your clothes hang for about an hour. You will be amazed how the wrinkles will disappear.

Q: How do I keep my clothes from wrinkling when I travel?A: Try putting a piece of plastic from the dry cleaner over each one. It will form air pockets between your clothing and prevent them from wrinkling.

Q: How can I make sure my suits and sport coats keep their shape?A: Do not use wire hangers. Hang them on thick wood hangers designed for suits and sport coats

Q: What are braces?A: Braces are another word for suspenders

Q: What is meant by "illusionary dressing techniques"?A: Illusionary dressing techniques are ways of dressing that make you appear taller, thinner, and more proportionate than you actually are.

Q: Should I keep my clothes in garment bags?A: No! Clothes need to breath. If you keep them in a garment bag, they will oxidize and become discolored

Q: How do I protect my cloths from moths? A: Buy cedar blocks for your closet.

Q: What should I wear with a tuxedo, a vest or a cummerbund?A: A cummerbund is traditional and conservative and a vest is more contemporary and stylish.

Q: How often should I dry clean my suits?A: Dry clean only when they are very soiled or have an odor from perspiration. Over dry cleaning will make your suits shiny and dry out the fabric. Try spot cleaning and steaming out your suits to get rid of wrinkles.

Q: What is meant by "illusionary dressing techniques"?A: Illusionary dressing techniques are ways of dressing that make you appear taller, thinner, and more proportionate than you actually are.

Q: How do I protect my cloths from moths?A: Buy cedar blocks for your closet.

Q: In a recent survey, how do most people want to appear in their clothing?A: Most people want to appear, taller, slimmer and younger.

Q: If you have a serious interview, which color suit would be your safest choice?A: A solid navy suit is the safest color to wear for an interview

Q: What is the correct tie length?A: About one half inch past the waist of your trouser

Q: Can I wear suspenders on a trouser which has belt loops?A: If you always wear suspenders, it is a cleaner look with out the belt loops. If you wear suspenders occasionally, then you can get away with the trouser having belt loops.

Q: What is the correct sleeve length for the suit coat?A: Your dress shirtsleeve should extend a half-inch beyond the suit sleeve. . Your dress shirtsleeve should extend a half-inch beyond the suit sleeve.

Q: How should a shirt collar fit?A: You should be able to gently insert two fingers through the front neck without creating a crater or gagging yourself, than the collar fits properly.

Q: What color shoes should one wear with a navy suit or navy dress slacks?A: A navy suit or slacks works best when paired with either black or cordovan

Q: Is it advisable to wear a button down shirt with a business suit?A: Actually no! The button down shirt originated with the sport of polo, to keep shirt collars from slapping into players’ faces as they rode. A button down shirt is sporty and should be worn with a sports coat or with dress slacks.

Q: Which "suit of armor " will be perceived as the most powerful for a serious business meeting?A: A dark charcoal pin stripe suit communicates the strongest power message..

Q: Can patterns be worn together for suit, shirt and ties?A: Yes! The rule is, two patterns to one solid. For instance, if the suit is a solid than you can wear a patterned shirt and tie. If the suit has a pattern than wear a pattern shirt and a solid tie or a solid shirt and a pattern tie.

Q: Can I look taller by getting dressed?A: Yes, to look taller wear vertical strips in you suits. You will optically gain one inch.

Q: When I wear a three-button suit do I button all three buttons?A: No, Only button the first two.

We remain with best regards,
your E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Necktie - From Tie History By Allan Flusser

2004-07-30T04:52:00.000-07:00

Besides being useful against colds, stiff necks and tooth ache, a necktie enables one to know more about the person who is wearing it..
Said by Emil De L'Empese in 1818

The history of neckties dates back a mere hundred years or so, for they came into existence as the direct result of a war. In 1660, in celebration of its hard-fought victory over Turkey, a crack regiment from Croatia (then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire) visited Paris. There, the soldiers were presented as glorious heros to Louis XIV, a monarch well known for his eye toward personal adornment. It so happened that the officers of this regiment were wearing brightly colored handkerchiefs fashioned of silk around their necks. These neck cloths, which probably descended from the Roman fascalia worn by orators to warm the vocal chords, struck the fancy of the king, and he soon made them an insignia of royalty as he created a regiment of Royal Cravattes. The word "cravat," incidentally, is derived from the word "Croat."

It wasn't long before this new style crossed the channel to England. Soon no gentleman would have considered himself well dressed without sporting some sort of cloth around his neck -- the more decorative, the better. At times, cravats were worn so high that a man could not move his head without turning his whole body. There were even reports of cravats worn so thick that they stopped sword thrusts. The various styles knew no bounds, as cravats of tassled strings, plaid scarves, tuffs and bows of ribbon, lace and embroidered linen all had their staunch adherents. Nearly one hundred different knots were recognized, and as a certain M. Le Blanc, who instructed men in the fine and sometimes complex art of tying a tie, noted, "The grossest insult that can be offered to a man comme il faut is to seize him by the cravat; in this place blood only can wash out the stain upon the honor of either party."

In this country, ties were also an integral part of a man's wardrobe. However, until the time of the Civil War, most ties were imported from the Continent. gradually, though, the industry gained ground, to the point that at the beginning of the twentieth century, American neckwear finally began to rival that of Europe, despite the fact that European fabrics were still being heavily imported.
In the 1960s, in the midst of the Peacock Revolution, there was a definite lapse in the inclination of men to wear ties, as a result of the rebellion against both tradition and the formality of dress. But by the mid-70s, this trend had reversed itself to the point where now, in the 1980s, the sale of neckwear is probably as strong if not stronger than it has ever been.

How to account for the continued popularity of neckties? For years, fashion historians and sociologists predicted their demise -- the one element of a man's attire with no obvious function. Perhaps they are merely part of an inherited tradition. As long as world and business leaders continue to wear ties, the young executives will follow suit and ties will remain a key to the boardroom. On the other hand, there does seem to be some aesthetic value in wearing a tie. In addition to covering the buttons of a shirt and giving emphasis to the verticality of a man's body (in the same way that the buttons on a military uniform do), it adds a sense of luxury and richness, color and texture, to the austerity of the dress shirt and business suit.

Perhaps no other item of a man's wardrobe has altered its shape so often as the tie. It seems that the first question fashion writers always ask is, "Will men's ties be wider or narrower this year?"

In the late 1960s and early 70s, ties grew to five inches in width. At the time, the rationale was that these wide ties were in proportion to the wider jacket lapels and longer shirt collars. This was the correct approach, since these elements should always be in balance. But once these exaggerated proportions were discarded, fat ties became another victim of fashion.

The proper width of a tie, and the one that will never be out of style, is 3 1/2 inches (2 3/4 to 3 1/2 inches are also acceptable). As long as the proportions of men's clothing remain true to a man's body shape, this width will set the proper balance. Though many of the neckties today are cut in these widths, the section of the tie where the knot is made has remained thick -- a holdover from the fat, napkinlike ties of the 1960s. This makes tying a small, elegant knot more difficult. Yet the relationship of a tie's knot to the shirt collar is an important consideration. If the relationship is proper, the knot will never be so large that it spreads the collar or forces it open, nor will it be so small that it will become lost in the collar.

Standard neckties come in lengths anywhere from 52 to 58 inches long. Taller men, or those who use a Windsor Knot, may require a longer tie, which can be special ordered. After being tied, the tips of the necktie should be long enough to reach the wasteband of the trousers (the ends of the tie should either be equal, or the smaller one just a fraction shorter).

After you've confirmed the appropriateness of a tie's shape, next feel the fabric. If it's made of silk and it feels rough to the touch, then it is a silk of inferior quality. Silk that is not supple is very much like hair that's been dyed too often. It's brittle and it's ends will fray easily. If care hasn't been taken in the inspection of ties, you may find misweaves and puckers.

All fine ties are cut on the bias, which means they have been cut across the fabric. This allows them to fall straight after the knot has been tied, without curling. A simple test consists of holding a tie across your hand. If it begins to twirl in the air, it was probably not cut on the bias and it should not be purchased.
Quality neckties want you to see everything: they have nothing to hide. Originally, neckties were cut from a single square of silk, which was then folded seven times in order to give the tie a rich fullness. Today the price of silk and the lack of skilled artisians prohibit this form of manufacture. Ties now derive their body and fullness by means of an additional lining.

Besides giving body to the tie, the lining helps the tie hold its shape. The finest quality ties today are lined with 100 percent wool and are generally made only in Europe. Most other quality ties use a wool mixture. The finer the tie, the higher the wool content. You can actually check. Fine linings are marked with a series of gold bars which are visible if you open up the back of the tie. The more bars, the heavier the lining. Many people assume that a quality tie must be thick, as this would suggest that the silk is heavy and therefore expensive. In fact, in most cases it is simply the insertion of a heavier lining that gives the tie this bulk. Be sure, then, that the bulk of the tie you are feeling is the silk outer fabric and not the lining.

After you have examined the lining, take a look at the tie just above the spot where the two sides come together to form an inverted V. In most quality ties, you will find a stitch joing the back flaps. This is called the bar tack, and it helps maintain the shape of the tie.

Now, if you can, open up the tie as far as possible and look for a loose black thread. This thread is called the slip stitch and was invented by a man named Joss Langsdorf in the 1920s to give added resilience to the tie. The fact that the tie can move along this thread means that it won't rip when it is being wrapped tightly around your neck, and that it will, when removed, return to its original shape. Pull the slip stitch, and the tie should gather. If you can do this, you've found a quality, handmade tie.

Finally, take the tie in your hand and run your finger down its length. You should find three separate pieces of fabric stitched together, not two, as in most commercial ties. This construction is used to help the tie conform easily to the neck.

By www.mycustomtailor.com

The Customtailored Dress Shirt

2004-07-30T04:23:00.000-07:00

By www.mycustomtailor.com

THE DRESS SHIRT COLLAR

When purchasing a dress shirt that is, one intended to be worn with a necktie – consider its collar first. Regardless of whether the shirt appears to go perfectly with your new suits, or is meticulously crafted with vast numbers of stitches to the inch, or even woven in the Caribbean’s most lustrous sea island cotton, if its high-banded collar looks at if it might swallow up your neck or its diminutive collar make your already prominent chin appear more so, move on. You need to focus on that portion of the dress shirt responsible for exhibiting to best advantage the body part that should receive the most attention – your face.

The triangle formed by the V opening of a buttoned tailored jacket and extending up to the area just below a person’s chin is the cynosure of a man’s costume. There are several dynamics working simultaneously to directly under the face, the wearer’s most expressive body part. Second, the area is usually accentuated by contrasts between the darker jacket and lighter shirt, the jacket and tie, and the tie and dress shirt. This triangular sector offer, the wearer’s most expressive body part. Second, the area is usually accentuated by contrasts between the darker jacket and lighter shirt, the jacket and tie, and the tie and dress shirt. This triangular sector offers more visible layers of textural activity than any other part of a man’s outfit, and the point at which all these elements converge is directly under one’s chin, where the inverted V of the dress shirt collar comes to a point.

Think of your face as portrait and your shirt collar as its frame. The collar’s height on your neck as well as the length and spread of its points should compliment the shape and size of your face. Within the infinite permutations of angle, scale, and mass, no single article of apparel better enhances a man’s countenance than the well-designed dress shirt collar. Since a person’s bone structure is fixed, although it will be affected by a weight gain or loss, the choice of collar should be guided by the individual’s particular physical requirements rather than the vicissitudes of fashion. Unlike other less visible accoutrements such as hosiery or shirt cuffs, this focal point constitutes one of a man’s most revealing gestures of personal style. All sophisticated dressers have arrives at one or more collar styles that best highlight their unique features while managing to add a bit of dash along the way.

Choosing the appropriate shirt collar requires experimentation and common sense. A smallish man with delicate features would be lost in a high-set collar with points longer than 3 ผ”. Conversely, a heavyset or big-boned man would loom even larger and overshadow a small collar. Collars should counterbalance the facial structure by either softening its strong lines or strengthening its soft ones. Long straight point collars – those 3” or more – will extend and narrow a wide face just as the broad-spaced points of spread collars will offset the line of long narrow one.

Tab collars or other pinned collars have the necessary height to shorten long necks. Strong-chinned men require fuller proportioned collars, just as large tabletops clamor for ample pedestals to achieve aesthetic balance. Though, admittedly, button-downs can look casually stylish, they are too often favored by exactly the kind of men who should avoid them – the double chinned set. Softer-chinned men need slightly higher and firmer collars to compensate for the lack of a strong line under their face.

Throughout the eighties and up through the mid-nineties, most dress shirts-no matter how expensive-generally had collars that were to small for the average wearer’s face. In an effort to convey that were too small for the average wearer’s face. In an effort t convey a more casual and less structured formality, men’s fashion has explored many approaches to neutralizing the collar’s conventional starched and ordered format. Consequently, collars have been lowered, shortened, and softened to such degrees that the original precepts for their correct proportioning have either been distorted or lost completely. Button-downs have little or on roll, straight point collars are so short even the smallest tie knot prevents their point from touching the shirt’s chest, while speared collars are so low on the neck they have been sapped of all their strength and flair. Except for those produced by a few high-end American, English, or Italian shirt makers, most dress shirt give the impression they are apologizing for their collars. The explosive growth of the made-to-measure dress shirt business owes much of its prosperity to the dramatize a man’s features. By the end of this decade, there will be more properly scaled collars on dress shirts than there were at its commencement.

I cannot help but wonder whether the long-understood sartorial contract between a man and the conventional format of a buttoned-up dress shirt and drawn-up necktie – which, in effect, exchanged superior stature for a measure of restriction – is no longer able to be negotiated. Since many of the contemporary, more diminutive collar styles fail to heighten the wearer’s appearance, they offer little compensation for their inherent discomfort. As a result, many alternatives have been put forth in an effort to replace the classic dress shirt collar composition.

However, as Oscar Schoeffler, longtime fashion editor of Esquire, once warned, “Never underestimate the power of what you wear. After all, there is just a small bit of you sticking out at the collar and cuff. The rest of what the world sees is what you drape on your frame.” Therefore, the most important factor to weigh when buying a dress shirt isn’t its color, fit, or price. It is the collar and its smartness for the wearer’s face.

FIT

Other than the Italians, who are almost fetishistically meticulous about the fit of their dress shirts, most men wear theirs too short in the sleeve, too small in the collar, and too full around the wrist. The explanation for this is relatively straightforward: successive washings shrink collar size and sleeve length, while most shirting manufacturers allow enough breadth in a man’s cuff to accommodate a large wrist girded by a Rolex-type watch.

The best dress shirt is useless if its collar does not fit comfortably. With the top button closed, you should be able to slide two fingers between your neck and the collar of the dress shirt. Most better dress shirt makers add an extra ฝ” to the stated collar size to allow for shrinkage within the first several washings. I would never wear a new dress shirt unless it fits perfectly around the neck in the store or when first tried on at home, return it or risk being strangled by a smaller collar before too very long.

The back of the shirt collar should be high enough to show ฝ” above the rear portion of the jacket’s collar. Its points should be able to touch the shirt’s body and rest smoothly on its front. When a tie is fitted up into the collar, its points should be long enough to remain in contact with the shirt’s body, regardless of how sharply the wearer turns his head. No part of the collar’s band should be able to be seen peeking over the tie’s knot. Semi spread to cutaway collars should have no tie space above the tie’s knot. In other words, both sides of the collar’s inverted V should meet or touch each other while the edges of their point should be covered both jacket’s neck.

DRESSING THE HAND

The band of linen between coat sleeve and hand is another one of those stylistic gestures associated with the better-dressed man. It has been so ever since the first aristocrat wore his lace ruffles spilled out from beneath his jacket cuffs. Some fashion historians mark the decline in modern men’s style from the point at which ready-made buttoned cuffs replaced cuff-linked ones and men found their wrists swathed in excess fabric, which either fell down their wrists or pulled up too short.

Whether you choose a button cuff or a French cuff, the shirt cuff should fit snugly around the wrist so that the additional length required to keep it from moving as the arm stretches does not fall down over the hand. If you can slide your hand though the cuff opening without first unfastening it, it is too large. If the sleeve is long enough and the cuff fits correctly, you should be able to move your arm in any direction without influencing how the cuff sits on top of your hand. The shirt cuff and hand should be able to move as a unit.

THE BODY

During the 1960s peacock era, when dress shirts had the fit of a second skin and were worn to flaunt the chest and arm muscles, the wearer had to pay particular attention to gaping shirtfronts if he inhaled too deeply or Sat down. Today, with comfort driving the fit of men’s clothes, issues such as these are no longer of much concern.

The shirt should certainly be full enough to allow its wearer to sit without concern. Normal shrinkage or a slight weight gain should not render it uncomfortable across the chest or waist. Since shirts with blousier fits tend to have lower arm holes, one should pay attention that the jacket’s armhole does not pull up the shirtsleeve, making it too short to rest on the top of the hand. A shirt’s armhole should fit comfortably up into the armpit for easier movement and consistent length. The shirt’s overall length should be such that you can raise your arms without pulling the garment out of the trouser top.

IN CONSIDERATION OF QUALITY

The most expensive component of any dress shirt is its fabric. As the layer in closest contact with the wearer’s skin, the most comfortable and luxurious fiber to wear is unquestionably 100 percent cotton. Anyone doubting this need only examine the fiber content of almost all men’s undergarments.

Better dress shirts are made in two-ply cotton or two-fold yarns, less expensive ones in single-ply. Cotton-poly blends are never two-ply, therefore these fabric tend to be found only in cheaper shirts. In a true two-ply fabric, the yarns used in the vertical warp and horizontal weft are made from two fibers long enough to twist around each other to produce the incremental strength, silkiness, and luster associated with the two-fold luxury fabric. The finer the yarn, the higher its threads per-inch count. Two-ply fabrics start at 80/2 (the 2 representing two-ply) and progress to as fine as 220/2 (which feels more like silk than cotton and is so expensive it is use only in custom-made shirts). Since two-ply dress shirt are costlier, most manufacturers will include this designation on the label. If it is not so designated, it usually means the shirt is of a single-ply fabric and its cost should reflect this.

Most two-ply dress shirts begin retailing at $75 for those privately labeled in large department stores and go to well over $200 for those more highly crafted with finer-count two-ply fabrics. This is not to suggest that single-ply dress shirts are necessarily inferior to or automatically less desirable than two-ply versions. Since we know how a poorly designed collar can scuttle the most expensive dress shirt, the two-ply designation reflects a garment’s intrinsic quality and not its relative value.

The better dress shirt is one of the few products whose craft has been relatively uncompromised by modern manufacturing technology. Due to the many pieces that must be put together and the exacting sewing procedures required, there is no substitute for the skilled, highly trained labor needed to produce a fine dress shirt. As it is not covered over by linings and such, a dress shirt’s construction, with the exception of collar and cuff, can be more easily evaluated than that of tailored clothing or neckties. All of its stitching, seams, and finishing are plainly exposed to the inquiring eye, especially if one knows what to look for and why.

There can be some details of workmanship that, should even one be found present, signal your investigation is at an end and the shirt’s dearer price has been confirmed. Most of these benchmarks are holdovers from a less mechanized age when the standards for deluxe quality were set by bespoke shirt makers. No manufacturer would willingly invest in the labor required to make such a shirt without ensuring the fabric was of a quality that justified the product’s retail price. He would be hard-pressed to recoup the cost of such craftsmanship if it was wasted on a shirt composed of inferior cloth.

The handmade buttonhole is a detail rarely found in shirt made outside of France or Italy. If you have a shirt with handmade buttonholes it represents a piece of workmanship that literally comes from the old country. Now, some custom shirt makers will argue in favor of a fine machine-made buttonhole over a handmade one, but handmade buttonholes are a mark of top-drawer threads. Ironically, their imperfect and visible portion can only identify them. As with legitimate custom tailored clothes, buttonholes are to be handmade, nothing less.

When dress shirts were worn closely fitted to the torso, their side seams were much in evidence and their width and finishing were considered two of the most important criteria for judging their shirt making craft. I can recall visiting Italy during the sixties and observing the Romans wrapped in their skintight, darted blue voile shirt with side seams that seemed to disappear into minute lines that traced the body. These side seams were of a single-needle construction. If the shirt you are considering has this feather, you are no doubt holding a garment that will command a better price.

Single-needle side seams are sewn twice, once up and once down the shirt’s seam, using only one needle and leaving just a single row of stitches visible on the outside. This is time-consuming and requires greater skill on the part of the operator than other seams. Most shirts’ side seams are sewn on a double-needle machine, which is much faster and produces two rows of visible stitching. Unfortunately, the double-needle side seam can, depending on the quality of its execution, pucker over time due to the thread and fabric’s different reactions to washing. However, since most modern shoppers are not that informed, the single-needle side seam is rarely found on ready-made shirts, and is almost exclusively reserved for those dress shirts found in the world of the bespoke.

Another telltale sign of an expensively made dress shirt can be found in the bottom tail’s design and finishing. Charvet, the famed French chemisier, designs its shirts with a square bottom and side slits or vents, which they feel produce less bulk under the trouser. They also believe their deeper sides keep the shirt better anchored. Turnbull and Asser, the Jermyn Street shirt maker, prefers the rounded bottom but reinforces its side seam at the bottom with a small triangular gusset. Either of these designs demands greater labor and expertise than the typical hemmed bottom. Prior to World War II, the gusset was a common feature on better shirts, but production costs forced many manufacturers to abandon this old-fashioned finishing technique.

The next nuance of detail that signals a dress shirt’s loftier pedigree is the direction of its sleeve placket’s buttonhole. All better shirts come with a small placket button and buttonhole to close the opening running up the inside sleeve from its cuff. However, a horizontally sewn buttonhole is evidence of meticulous crafting, since the button must be lined up perfectly with the buttonhole, unlike a vertical placement, which allows a greater margin for error. Since this detail is easily detectable, it can make any examination a short one.

The last sure giveaway of rarefied shirt making can only be detected in a shirt made of a striped fabric. Should the stripe of its sleeve line up exactly with the horizontal line of the yoke’s stripe when they meet at the shoulder seams, you are in the presence of shirt making art. Generally, this kind of work is reserved for the custom-made dress shirt, but should you find it in one ready-made, be prepared to pay at least $150.

The next passel of workmanship details should be present on all deluxe-priced ($125 and up) dress shirts whether they are representing themselves as better ready-to-wear, made-to-measure, or even custom-made. While it is more difficult for the beginner to identify these details once learned, less well-made dress shirts become much easier to spot.

The stitching on a shirt’s collar and cuffs should be so fine as to be nearly invisible. If you can clearly see each individual stitch sitting on top of the fabric, its manufacturer is less costly. All better dress shirt collars have removable stays. The shape or pattern on either side of a shirt’s collar parts or cuffs should match exactly. Pockets should be lined up so that they virtually vanish from sight. Buttonholes should be finished so that it is difficult to see their individual stitches. Buttons should be cross-stitched for extra strength, an operation that cannot be performed by machine.

Real pearl buttons are to fine shirt what authentic horn buttons are to expensive sports jackets. If a sewing machine needle hits a plastic button, the button shatters; should that same needle strike a pearl button, the needle shatters. Authentic mother-of-pearl buttons, especially thicker ones, are incredibly sensual to the hand and eye, as well as costing ten times the price of the typical plastic button.

DRESS SHIRT AESTHETICS

While the dress shirt functions as a backdrop for necktie, braces, jacket, and pocket square, there are two options in furnishing this stage. The first and by far the more popularly practiced method employ the dress shirt as a neutral foundation. As such, the elements are either harmonized upon it or one is emphasized over the others, such as the bold print tie against a solid white shirt. In this presentation, the shirt acts purely in a supporting role.

The alternative approach casts the dress shirt as leading man at center stage. This style emanated from England and is reasonably easy to execute if the principles governing its execution are well understood. In socially conscious London, an upper-class man would signal his membership in a particular club, regiment, or school through his choice of tie. Since these neckties’ designs were fairly standard and limited in number (there being, after all, only so many organizations the wearer could claim as his own), he tended to punctuate his somber and predictable business ensembles with more strongly patterned dress shirt, the very lesson London’s Jermyn Street became so renowned for gentlemen’s dress shirts. In this approach, the tie, shirt, and pocket square act as subordinate players to the shirt. A well-endowed collar was essential to convey the shirt’s leading role and the wearer’s loftier station, which is why English-bred dress shirt tend to have more prominent collars than their European or American counterparts.

As either of these approaches can project considerable sophistication, one last issue remains in guiding a man toward an informed dress shirt purchase. This concerns the stylistic consistency of the shirt’s parts. For example, regardless of how beautiful its fabric or fit, a double-breasted jacket with a center vent remains a half-breed, a mixed metaphor, a sartorial mutt. A garment’s detailing must be in character with its fabric, or else, like a pinstriped suit with patch pockets or flap pockets on a tuxedo, the wearable’s integrity and classiness is compromised

Here are some general guidelines specific to the styling of men’s dress shirts:

ท The smoother and more lustrous the fabric, the dressier the shirt. On the scale of relative formality, blue broadcloth ranks above blue end-on-end broadcloth which, in turn, ranks above blue pinpoint oxford, which in finer and dressier than regular blue oxford. But royal or queen’s oxford, which is made of a two-ply yarn that gives the oxford weave greater sheen and a finer texture, is comparable to end-on-end broadcloth in its formality. The more white that shows in the ground of a check or stripe, the dressier the shirting.

ท Different collar styles also connote varying degrees of dress-up. Spread collars are generally dressier than straight point collar and become even more so with each degree of openness. White contrast collars dress up any shirt no matter its pattern or color, and should only be worn with a French cuff in either self fabric or contrasting white. However, a straight point contrast collar in white is as much a sartorial oxymoron as button cuffs on a dress shirt with is as much a sartorial oxymoron as button buffs on a dress shirt look less authentically classy in collar models less open than a semi-spread, because their to-attach stiff progenitors could only accommodate a four-in-hand if there was enough width to the collar opening. Tab, pinned, or eyelet collars can also give a fabric a more decorous look. If you see a blue oxford shirt decorated with a white spread collar or a button-down collar loitering on a dressy white ground English striping, avoid these mongrel offerings, for their questionable propriety will do nothing for yours.

Most of the criteria for purchasing a classically styled dress shirt have little to do with price or even the quality of the fabric. If a relatively shirt made with a mediocre fabric has a collar that is flattering to your face and affords you the right fit, it will render greater value to you than a more expensively made shirt with neither of these attributes. Value has to do with longevity of wear, as ultimately, the most expensive clothes a man can buy are those that rarely come out of the closet.

Custom Shirting

2004-07-29T01:14:00.000-07:00

Besides the individualization of its styling, the advantages of the custom-made dress shirt over one that is ready-to-wear can be found in its precise fit as well as the superior quality and taste of its fabrics. The most visible and important component of the dress shirt is its collar, and the bespoke process allows for one that is designed to best present the wearer’s face. The fit of the dress shirt’s cuff to the wearer’s hand, its second most noticeable detail, is another area where the custom route is decidedly the higher of the two roads.
In choosing a shirt maker, you must inquire about what process he will use to produce your shirt. The maker should begin by creating an individual pattern from which he makes a sample shirt. having been worn and washed several times at home, the shirt should be examined on your body for final approval or further altering. After those washings, the collar should fit comfortably while still allowing for some shrinkage. The shirtsleeve should still be long enough to show ฝ” of cuff from under the jacket sleeve and also have enough length to offset further shrinkage.
If cut from a stock pattern rather than an individual pattern, the shirt is not custom-made. In some cases, if you are a standard fit, the shirt might require little adjustment, but it would be inaccurate to call it bespoke. Shirts deserving to be called custom-made cost $150 and up and should be made from thirty-six-inch-width, 100 percent cotton, two-ply cloth. This is easy enough to determine. Ask the salesman to show you a bolt of the fabric and ask him to measure its width. Since fabric woven in this old-world width is always two-ply, this is a fail-safe checkpoint. Thirty-six-inch narrow-width shirting fabrics are made on Europe’s older, slower looms, which produce a luxurious cloth of richer colors and hand than the fabric will feel even silkier with wear. As long as the shirt’s fabric is woven in either Switzerland or Italy, you are assured of a finished product of deluxe caliber.
To confirm a shirt’s pedigree, you must establish the shirt’s level of sewing artistry and manufacturing skill. The entire shirt, including its side seams, should be sewn with a single needle. This construction allows for the smallest stitches, the narrowest seam, and the most meticulous finishing. The shirt’s side seam should be precisely narrow and the individual stitches on its collar so small as to be almost invisible. The collar so small as to be almost invisible. The collar and cuff lining should be cotton (not fused) and from Europe. Switzerland makes the best. The yoke on the back of a custom shirt should be made of two separate pieces joined in the center and the button should be genuine mother-of-pearl and attached by hand. If there is a monogram, it too should be hand-embroidered as opposed to machine-made.

If the answers to these areas of investigation are satisfactory, you can be assured of receiving a top-quality product and should be prepared to pay $150 to $300, depending on the country where it is bought and any extras and collars. Choose to have the shirt’s excess fabric set aside rather than made into a finished collar. If you lost or put on weight, it’s better to have fabric on hand. The costs can also vary according to the quality of two-ply cotton fabric used, which can range from 100s up to the very expensive, silk like 220s.
Of course, all thing being equal, the cost of the bespoke dress shirt ultimately rests on the genius of its pattern and the nuances of its fit. However, there are some aspects of shirt making that do separate the masters from the top makers. These details include special gussets to reinforce the shirt’s side seams where they meet at the hem bottom, pattern matching on the back yoke to the sleeve, hand-sewn buttonholes (found only in Europe), horizontal sleeve placket buttonholes, and extra-thick mother-of-pearl buttons.
All of the above quality the product as custom-made. Below this, there are a variety of methods of individualized shirt making that are often called custom-made. Obviously, this term stands for a specific process of creating a particular shirt with an attendant quality of shirting fabric and shirt making. Make-to-order, individually cut, and made-to-measure are all terms that indicate something less than custom-made, and that is why they need to be understood if one is to compare apples with apples. If you pay less than $150 for a dress shirt and it is represented as being comparable to the top-of-the-heap bespoke ones, something is amiss. That is not to say that a custom-made shirt will always look better than a less expensive garment. A well-designed ready-to-wear shirt can look more flattering than a bespoke one with a poorly designed collar. As with all wearing apparel, design, not quality, is the ultimate arbiter of stylish longevity.

By www.mycustomtailor.com

A General History Of Detachable Collars On Custom Made Business And Formal Shirts

2004-07-28T23:34:00.000-07:00

You may remember the television commercial of old that shows a women yelling - "ring around the collar" - in which she uses a detergent to wash out the grime from her husband´s shirt and collar.

Ring around the collar isn´t simply a Madison Avenue executive´s clever ploy to sell washing detergent. It´s a centuries old problem and more than 150 years ago a Troy women set out to do something about it. However, she had not planned on creating a whole new industry.

Hannah Lord was the daughter of William A. Lord, a Revolutionary War officer and author of Lord´s Military Tactics. She married Orlando Montague, a shoe maker (or blacksmith), on August 14, 1817, and both settled in Troy originally on Second Street.

Mrs. Montague, tired of washing her husband´s shirts because only the collars were dirty decided one day to snip off a collar, wash it, and sew it back on. Mr. Montague, it´s written, agreed to the experiment, and in 1827, the first detachable collar was made at their home at 139 Third Street.

Notice of the event spread through the city and the Rev. Ebenezer Brown took notice. Brown, who was formerly a Methodist Minister, then the owner of a small shop at 285 River Street, was asked several times for the new product that was buzzing around the streets of the city.

Brown saw the need and rushed to fill it. His wife and daughter began cutting, stitching, and laundering the first detachable collars, consisting of 2 ply material, which had to be taped and tied around the neck. These early collars were called "string collars" and cost 25 cents a piece, of two dollars per dozen. Brown would sell and deliver the collars door to door.

His popularity forced him to set up a workshop in the back of his store where he hired several women to do the job, and also outsourced the work. Payment for their labor was in the form of "trade" in his store, and set by his own price. This may have been the first "sweat shop." Brown eventually moved to New York City in 1834.

Orlando Montague, the first person to wear a detachable collar, soon began his own collar factory with business partner Austin Granger in 1834. The Montague & Granger collar factory began at 222 River Street. Besides improving on the string collar, they developed the "Bishop" collar, an upright modification of the turn down collar. Besides collars, they manufactured "dickeys" (detached shirt bosoms), and separate cuffs.

Detachable collars had the problem of leaving gaps between the shirt and collar and this led to the invention of the use of buttons to snap the collars in place. This also led to the development of several new designs of collars.

The original reason that Mrs. Montaque created the detachable collar was to clean it separately from the shirt. With the increase production of collars came the need to wash the thousands of collars being produced. In 1835, Independence Starks, entered the collar making business, and also created the first Troy Laundry at 66 North Second Street (Fifth Avenue today) where he washed not only his own collars but those of competitors as well. Many years later the laundry industry would spark the creation of the first female union in the country.

For the next 50 years many inventions were developed to aid the collar, cuff, and shirt industry and Troy production boomed. By the late 1880´s, detachable collars were being manufactured around the nation.

By the early 20th century, 15,000 people worked in the collar industry in Troy and more than 85% were native born women. Ninety out of every 100 collars worn in America were made here and Troy became world famous as the "Collar City."

In 1901, there were 26 collar and cuff makers and 38 laundries in the city. Wearing a detached white collar gave rise to a new working social class, the "white collar" worker who differentiated themselves from the no or "blue" collar factory worker.

By 1962, only six companies were still making collars and cuffs in Troy and by the 1970´s most had gone out of business or moved South.

Marvin Neitzel Corp, a firm that currently manufacturers nurses uniforms, is the last existing firm which has collar roots. Marvin Neitzel Corporation goes back to 1886 when E. W. Marvin joined the collar firm Gunnison & Son, making it Gunnison & Marvin, later incorporating in 1908 as E. W. Marvin Company. Raymond P. Neitzel joined the firm in 1917 to develop a full line of hospital products and the firm became Marvin Neitzel Corporation in 1931. Marvin Neitzel Corp is the last company to make collars in Troy, ceasing production only a few years ago.

By www.mycustomtailor.com